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Vogue Philippines outlines the biggest moments of Milan Fashion Week.
Every year, the cobblestoned streets of Milan teem with energy as fashionphiles, renowned designers, and the industry’s notables venture from show to show. Italy’s fashion capital is known for its amped-up glamour thanks to its renowned roster of designers including Miuccia Prada, Moschino, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, and Gucci.
MFW kicked off on September 20 with a special Richard Avedon exhibit at Palazzo Reale, an exploration of the bonds between people and a look into the relationship between Gianni and Donatella Versace. It continued strong, with inflatables on the Moschino runway, where designer Jeremy Scott reinterpreted the economic issue of inflation as literal floaties on vibrant skirt suits and voluminous silhouettes. Meanwhile, Bella Hadid and Emily Ratajkowski brought a goth-girl aesthetic to Versace’s runway with haute charm through swaggering tailored suiting and electric satin top coats.
While there were several major and dramatic Milan Fashion Week moments, here are five of the most talked about.
The Debut of Rhuigi Villaseñor at Bally
Filipino designer Rhuigi Villaseñor, the esteemed creative known for his collections at RHUDE that call to mind a renewed sense of opulence and allure, finally made his highly-anticipated debut for Swiss brand Bally. With concise tailoring, python-accented casual wear, and form-fitting silhouettes, Villaseñor redefines the classical principles of luxury—a distinct aesthetic reminiscent of the era when Tom Ford took over of Gucci.
Where classics merged with contemporary details, this capsule even included jewelry and swimwear—new endeavors made by the burgeoning designer that highlighted his unique Los Angeles perspective. Leather co-ords, metallic moto-jackets, plunging mini dresses, and tailored suits were rampant throughout the designer’s line-up of eye-catching ensembles—a Milan Fashion Week highlight that put Filipino creativity on the map.
Young Blood: Designers Maximilian Davis of Ferragamo and Stella Jean of Stella Jean
With the fashion world promising to improve representation, Milan Fashion Week proves that things are moving in the right direction.
Maximilian Davis, the 27-year-old British designer of Trinidadian-Jamaican heritage, debuted his first collection for Ferragamo after being appointed as creative director a few months ago. Sensuality took center stage with the designer envisioning a modernized version of Hollywood glamour through an invigorating line-up of translucent draping silhouettes in sunset and sunrise gradients.
Meanwhile, Haitian-Italian designer Stella Jean returned to MFW after a two-year hiatus after pledging she would not return unless there were other Black designers. The designer founded the We Are Made in Italy movement alongside Milan-bred African American designer Edward Buchanan and Afro Fashion Week Milano founder Michelle Ngomno.
A Twin Moment with Gucci and Sunnei
At Gucci, Alessandro Michele showed his most personal collection to date. An ode to the designer’s mom, Eralda, and her twin sister, Guiliana, Michele surprised his visitors with the deception of similitude during his Twinsburg runway show, where he cast 68 sets of twin models. Through this show, Michele hoped to demonstrate the duality that exists within us all with the models joining hands and marching down the runway together.
Hours after, Sunnei’s presentation highlighted the power of twins as well, albeit in its own distinct way. The brand’s take on duality resulted in a runway show that could be comparable to a performative act. The brand demonstrated how within the fashion industry, one’s sense of self can be broken down into many representations and that fashion can truly be transformative. One of the twins was placed among the audience unbeknownst to the show’s visitors. As soon as the show began, the models stepped down from their seat and walked through the revolving door to reveal another twin dressed head-to-toe in Sunnei’s newest collection. Known for their traditional Italian craftsmanship, utilitarian ensembles outlined their collection with joy-inducing prints and playful details.
A family affair with the Kardashians
Kim Kardashian curated the Dolce & Gabbana show so, of course, the KarJenners including Kris, Khloe, and Kim’s children North, Saint, and Chicago, all came out to Milan for support in sparkling coordinated ensembles. The sought-after collection, “Ciao Kim,” are reworked pieces from the brand’s collections from 1987 to 2007. Each garment within the capsule is a bridge between the past and the present, interpreted through shapely corsets, wiggle dresses, and curve-hugging lingerie sets. Prior to this, the family’s most notable collaboration with the brand was when Kourtney married Travis Barker in Dolce & Gabbana.
Meanwhile, Jezabelle Cormio of Cormio highlighted the unconventional charm of a modern and diverse family in the form of an eccentric runway show. A diverse cast of models paraded down the runway alongside toddlers in pastel knitwear and whimsical attire. Paired with playful elements such as strollers and car seats, Cormio’s capsule consisted of star motifs, ruffles, and ribbons.
A Y2K comeback with Paris Hilton and Kate Moss
Early noughties style icon Paris Hilton closed Versace’s runway in a tiny pink dress, fingerless gloves, and a matching pink veil to top it off. A nostalgic return to Y2K style, Hilton brings her trademark style to the runway with a glitzy, sequined number that gives Barbiecore a new face.
Meanwhile, British supermodel Kate Moss also took to the catwalk for Bottega Veneta‘s Spring/Summer 2023 show. A rare appearance after her last show at the Fendace extravaganza last year, the model donned a checkered shirt and baggy jeans.
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