These ’80s-inflected outfits would not look out of place in a Jane Fonda workout video.
In 1931, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel traveled from Paris to Los Angeles on the invitation of American film producer Samuel Goldwyn, who asked her to design costumes for the films he commissioned under United Artists. Goldwyn was spellbound by Chanel’s European glamour, and she designed costumes for three of his films: Palmy Days, Tonight or Never and The Greeks Had a Word for Them. Today, the Parisian maison’s connection to Hollywood lives on in the stars it dresses for the red carpet (hello, Penélope Cruz, Margot Robbie and Marion Cotillard), a relationship it cemented by staging its Cruise 2024 show at Paramount Studios. Below, everything you need to know about the show.
Dig out those ’80s aerobics tapes
Chanel’s relationship with Hollywood may be linked to red-carpet dressing, but on the catwalk Virginie Viard was more focused on what A-listers might be wearing to the gym. The show opened with a series of looks featuring gold lamé and double C logo bodysuits, leg warmers and sweatpants that wouldn’t look out of place in a Jane Fonda workout video. There were even trainers with light-up heels. “There are jeans, a more aerobic feeling; every show is the occasion to do something we’ve never done before,” Viard told Vogue’s Nicole Phelps. Think kettlebells, Barrecore or Barry’s Bootcamp – but your exercise class is on Rue Cambon.
We’re heading to Venice Beach
If Chanel’s Cruise 2023 show was all about Formula One motor racing, then its Cruise 2024 sport of choice is skateboarding. Had Viard been hanging out at Venice Beach’s skate park before the show? The laid-back sporty insouciance on the runway certainly suggested as much, with models sporting loose Bermuda shorts, cropped T-shirts, satin shellsuits, slush-ice shade bucket hats, palm tree motif knits and chunky trainers. The most coveted accessory on the catwalk? A skateboard.
Drop it like it’s… Chanel
When Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel arrived in Los Angeles in 1931 she was greeted by Greta Garbo. Entertaining the A-list in 2023? Snoop Dog. And the fashion fuel guaranteed to get guests including Margot Robbie, Marion Cottilard, Paris Hilton, Chloë Sevigny, Nile Rodgers and Margaret Qualley out of their bleachers-style seating? The Chanel burger van.
Barbiecore is forevermore
For recent press junket outings promoting her film Barbie, Margot Robbie has been seen sporting ensembles inspired by the world’s most beloved doll. On the front row at Chanel, she wore flared denim, a bikini top and a chainmail bolero, but the saccharine Barbie-pink looks on the runway will have provided plenty of future photo call inspiration. The wardrobe in Barbie’s Dreamhouse just got a glow up.
Viard’s vision was inclusive
Where the autumn/winter 2023 catwalks were criticised for having regressed in terms of diverse and inclusive casting, Viard has been credited for casting models with more “normal” body types. This was cheeringly noticeable on the Cruise 2024 runway, walked by models who were not universally sample size. In Hollywood, Viard’s vision of beauty is universal.
This article was originally published on British Vogue.