There’s nothing like the men’s fashion shows in June—the street style is more adventurous, everyone’s aperitivo-happy, and you can escape traffic hell on a bike. This year we have an especially exciting men’s season to look forward to, starting with a couple of debuts, one from ERL’s Eli Russell Linnetz, who is putting on his first-ever runway show at Pitti Uomo in Florence; and another from Pharrell Williams who will finally get to unveil his new vision for Louis Vuitton.
In Milan for Men’s Week, the headlines continue with a Valentino solo menswear show—a change since it began showing in co-ed format back in spring 2021. Titled “Valentino The Narratives,” the show will be held on June 16 at the Università degli Studi de Milano Statale. The move is a homecoming for the label, as Valentino Garavani staged his first menswear show here in 1985, and spotlighting the brand’s menswear now makes sense. Pierpaolo Piccioli’s vision of masculinity has been in the spotlight thanks to celebrity fans like BTS’s Suga (a brand ambassador), Formula 1 World Champion Lewis Hamilton, and actor Pedro Pascal.
Ralph Lauren Purple Label will also be returning to the Italian city since last showing a fall 2020 collection here. Last, but not least, Gucci will stage a men’s presentation ahead of Sabato De Sarno’s much-awaited debut as creative director in September.
June 16 is quickly becoming one of the important dates in the schedule, as it will also see the debut of Margherita Missoni’s new venture, the label Maccapani, which has been in development since 2021. This presentation is scheduled a day before the brand’s e-commerce site goes live, effectively making it see-now-buy-now for now. Why debut at men’s week? The shorter week offers more chances to stand out, but it also fits the ethos of the label. “In principle it’s genderless. Everyone is invited to try it,” Missoni told Vogue Business. “However, unlike a lot of contemporary casual clothing that is derived from menswear, Maccapani is rooted in a fundamentally female point of view. And, it’s very much built around the shape of a woman,” she explained.
Spread throughout the schedule are the stalwart Italian giants Dolce & Gabbana, Emporio and Giorgio Armani, Tod’s, Prada, Zegna, and Etro, where Marco De Vincenzo will present his second men’s outing. Elsewhere, JW Anderson will show his men’s and women’s collections at a nighttime show on June 18, and 2023 LVMH Prize Finalist Luca Magliano will unveil his latest collection earlier on the same day. Missing Silvia Venturini Fendi’s menswear collection? Fear not, she will be showing as a guest of Pitti Uomo at its new factory in Tuscany.
Milan Men’s Week runs from June 16th to June 20th, 2023.
This article was originally published on Vogue.