Photographed by Claudia Gonzalez
Vogue Philippines has created a bite-sized guide to everything you need to know about what happened at Paris Fashion Week this season.
Although Fashion Month has ended, the industry is still reveling in the action and energy of Paris Fashion Week. From the designer comebacks and departures to the emergence of new talent making waves in the industry, and of course, the ever-present flow of street style. Below, we have curated a roundup of the standout collections that you might want to keep an eye on as they hit stores next season.
The Row
Renowned for creating must-have footwear like the Ginza sandal and Zipped 1 boots, this season, models graced the Parisian salon barefoot, unveiling the next season’s resort collection. The designs focused on minimalist essentials, featuring pocket tees, relaxed trousers, belted cashmere blazers, and tailored gabardine coats, blending comfort with refined sophistication.
Chanel
Before Matthieu Blazy’s debut in September, Chanel paid tribute to the brand’s codes with a stunning ribbon installation crafted by Willo Perron at the Grand Palais. The collection featured oversized pearls, delicate ribbons, and bold bows, elegantly adorning signature two-knit sets, three-piece suits, and tiered dresses, skirts, and blouses, blending tradition with modernity.
Florentina Leitner
Florentina Leitner delved into the surreal teenage fantasy of becoming a cheerleader, only to be abruptly abducted by aliens. Set against the backdrop of a high-school basketball court, she seamlessly blended the crispness of Japanese school uniforms with the relaxed American athleisure appeal of hoodies and caps. Mixing the charm of The Princess Diaries with the bold, playful energy of the anime series Dandandan.
Louis Vuitton
Nicholas Ghesquière staged his runway show at the historic L’Étoile du Nord train station, drawing inspiration from the allure of travelers awaiting trains and cinematic costumes from memorable train scenes. Presented in 60 striking looks, the collection blended ‘80s New Wave futurism with a sense of timelessness, offering highly functional garments that smoothly transcended both time and space.
Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello honored Yves Saint Laurent’s legacy by embracing the brand’s bold identity through commanding power shoulders, dramatic voluminous silhouettes, and opulent fabrics. The collection was further elevated with a striking palette of marigold orange, fuchsia pink, teal, yellow, and khaki, adding a contemporary vibrancy while staying true to the house’s luxurious heritage.
Alaïa
Designed by Pieter Mulier, this season’s collection draws inspiration from Dutch sculptor Mark Mander; his artwork punctuated the show space, emphasizing the agelessness of the body-conscious clothes that referenced different histories, periods, and places. Padded face-framing hoods, sculptural tubular tops, and multitiered fringe skirts celebrate and accentuate the natural curves of the female form, blending art with fashion in a striking exploration of structure and fluidity.
Hodakova
Ellen Hodakova Larsson made a striking return to the runway with her first major show since winning the prestigious LVMH Prize last year. Known for her distinct design language, she continues to push boundaries with upcycling deadstock and vintage materials. She presented a collection that fused twisted tailoring with workwear-inspired elements, featuring shrunken knitwear, belted waistbands repurposed as dresses and jackets, and sleek, lace-up leather ensembles.
Dries Van Noten
At the renowned Palais Garnier, Julian Kausner presented his inaugural collection as Dries Van Noten’s new creative director. This collection turned apparel into a theatrical affair, resembling items taken from a costume box, where each piece acted as both clothing and performance. Kausner combined precise tailoring with a bohemian flair, achieving a breathtaking contrast of unique textiles and quirky, period-inspired silhouettes.
Vivienne Westwood
Andreas Kronthaler marked three decades in London with a collection that focuses on the city’s dynamic mix of cultures. Every piece radiated a sense of rebellion and playfulness, intricately woven into the fabric of the designs. By blending aristocratic elegance with the grittiness of roadman streetwear, Kronthaler offered a collection that suited every wardrobe seeking bold fashion statements.
Caroline Hu
In her collection ‘Daydream,’ Hu elevated her signature smocking technique to new heights, weaving a captivating narrative of sleeping beauty across 17 looks, each adorned in delicate tulle and quilted floral appliqué. The presentation was both romantic and nightmarish, reflecting the duality of the world and exploring the tension between splendor and what we face daily on the news.
Tom Ford
Haider Ackermann reinterpreted Tom Ford’s legacy with a sensational debut collection that reclaimed sex appeal and sophistication. Through his expert craftsmanship in streamlined tailoring, luxurious eveningwear, denim, and leather, Ackermann demonstrated a deep understanding of the Tom Ford lifestyle. The collection offered a complete wardrobe, ranging from elegant silk dressing gowns to striking red-carpet suits, ensuring a balance of artistic vision and commercial appeal.
Paula Canovas Del Vas
In her kaleidoscopic vision, Paula Canovas Del Vas unveiled a vibrant and chaotic retro collection, brimming with multi-colored space knits, capacious taffeta skirts, and go-go boots. Marking a milestone in her design journey, she debuted her first menswear pieces infused with her signature Spanish surrealist style, and a Converse collaboration with sneakers adorned with felt flowers by her mother.
Miu Miu
Mrs. Prada is reviving the bullet bra with her signature blend of playful womanhood and vintage femininity. The collection expertly balanced schoolgirl innocence with the refined grace of an educated woman, incorporating brooches, bedazzled socks, slouchy tweed suits, and cozy cardigans. As always, the runway featured a stellar lineup of A-listers, including Gigi Hadid, Lou Doillon, Raffey Cassidy, Laura Harrier, and Sarah Paulson.
