Photo by Mauro Durant and Diana Gomez
Heart Evangelista, Vogue Philippines contributing fashion editor Anna Vitiello, and correspondents Renee Ultado, Mauro Durant, and Diana Gomez take you through another whirlwind season at Paris Fashion Week.
Vogue Philippines takes you inside another whirlwind season at Paris Fashion Week. Through our correspondents’ perspectives, see everything you missed: from the latest trends and innovations off the fall 2024 runways to a peek behind the curtain—some of the backstage moments, cocktail parties, and book launches that the fashion industry flocked to between shows.
KIMHĒKIM
Inside the Kimhēkim fall/winter 2024 show in Paris, pearls hung from sunglasses and lightly decorated tailored suits; trenches were worn as skirts; and fur decorated the tops of sneakers. For South Korean designer Kiminte Kimhekim’s collection titled “Puzzle,” streamlined silhouettes had touches of the unexpected. It was the desired effect, it seems, as models jumped up from between the audience and walked straight onto the runway.
Reverie by Caroline Hu
The grim, moody atmosphere of a dilapidated Paris apartment underscored Caroline Hu’s dark fantasy, which manifested as billowed and blown garments in saturated floral patterns and sequin appliqués. If fashion can be armor, Hu’s fall/winter 2024 collection embodied it via tiered tulle, exaggerated crinoline, and inflatable pillows that created a soft, protective outer layer around the body.
Schiaparelli
The latest Schiaparelli collection featured studded eyes that trailed the cuffs of suit jackets, and organic impressions embossed on large brass buttons on corsets, belts, and puffer jackets.
Inside the Schiaparelli salons, Vogue Philippines got a closer look at the details that defined creative director Daniel Roseberry’s fall/winter 2024 collection for the fashion house. With relaxed cuts, sleek tailoring, and searing detail at the forefront of his collection, he hints toward quieter—albeit no less statement-making—wearable, everyday pieces.
LVMH Prize
The LVMH Prize supports young fashion designers selected for their outstanding creativity and skill. At the awarding body’s cocktail party held at Avenue Montaigne in Paris, Vogue Philippines took a special look at the 20 semifinalists’ collections. Brands Standing Ground, Who Decides War, Hodakova, Chiahung Su, Duran Lantink, and more were on display as guests Coco Rocha, Jennifer Lawrence, and Simon Porte Jacquemus dropped by to peruse the pieces over cocktails and conversation.
Roger Vivier
At the Roger Vivier re-see in Paris, the fashion house presents psychedelic geometries across signature kitten heels and pumps for their latest collection “VIVIER OP- TICAL,” inspired by the Op Art movement of the 1960s.
Simone Rocha
At the Simone Rocha re-see, Paris Fashion Week attendees were able to view the designer’s runway presentation that took place in central London at the 12th Century St. Bartholomew Church. Titled “The Wake,” the collection was peppered with house-coded corsetry, faux-fur coats and embellishment, and a just-right amount of rhinestones and pearls.
Róisín Pierce
Irish designer Róisín Pierce presented her collection titled “O Lovely One, Fallen From a Star.” The words are taken from a poem that she wrote with Michelle Freya, which is about a fallen angel who was, as written in the first stanza, “sent from the celestial worlds of hope.” Pierce’s haloed angels were garlanded with floral chains that dangled and trailed down the body, moving the eye along organically ruched cotton yarns and smocked organza.
Yohji Yamamoto
At 80, designer Yohji Yamamoto still finds ways to refresh a garment in contemporary ways. Across a palette of black, bright reds, and muted grays, he plays with shape and texture, coats and suit jackets jutting out at the shoulders and collapsing squares that fall along the hemline. Fabric is draped and tucked to his imaginative new forms, interrupted by slivers of color or the sharp peaks of geometric structures.
Victoria Beckham
Vogue Philippines got an exclusive backstage look at #VictoriaBeckham’s fall/winter 2024 show. Muted cool and warm tones were isolated to the inner corner—a technique makeup artist Fara Homidi says “gives a strong gaze.” The hair by Anthony Turner was neatly parted down the middle, slicked back into ponytails.
Inside an ornate salon in the Hotel Salomon de Rothschild in Paris, Beckham’s collection resculpted familiar silhouettes, building up the shoulder and elongating the leg. It was detail that made the difference in visual perceptions of proportion: high versus low necklines, upstanding collars on coats, tall shoulder pads, and chain fringe that extended toward the floor.
Edward Enninful’s Mapplethorpe
Between shows, Vogue Philippines got a first look at the opening of former British Vogue editor Edward Enninful’s latest project: an exhibition of key work by American artist Robert Mapplethorpe. In the way Enninful subverts a fashion image, “Mapplethorpe disrupts the idea of what a portrait is.” At Thaddaeus Ropac Paris Marais, personal connections were abound. The exhibition is available for viewing through April 6.
Atlein
Channeling the strength and allure of sci-fi heroines, the Atlein FW24 collection is a synergy between power and sensuality. A reflection between our soft bodies and the rigidity of the machines we live with currently and in the future.
Beautifully draped voiles pulled and disrupted with surfwear-coded detailing highlights designer Antonin Tron’s strong hand on garment construction. “The silhouette is body conscious, active, often elongated, not fully earthbound.”
Meanwhile, the injection of new materials serves as a narrative vehicle to further this season’s dystopic approach to a post-postmodern femininity: second-skin crystal mesh at once delicate and hardy, an emerald green sequins offering a finish that reads reptilian, and the iridescence of a silver-coated technical jersey mimicking liquid lead spilled and flowing off a body.
Hermès
Set against a backdrop of rain, Hermès fall/winter 2024 was about resilience through the elements. “Boldly she rides on,” read the show notes: a nod to the house’s signature equestrian spin that was applied to modern classics such as leather biker jackets and buttery soft leathers.
Vogue Philippines contributing fashion editor Anna Vitiello was in attendance for the Hermès fall/winter 2024 show, set against a backdrop of rain. She references the show notes that read “Boldly she rides on,” noting “the house’s signature equestrian spin that was applied to modern classics such as leather biker jackets and buttery soft leathers.”
Chanel
For its fall/winter 2024 show, Chanel premiered a special film which cast Oscar-winning actors Penelope Cruz and Brad Pitt in a film by Inez & Vinoodh, an homage to the 1966 New Wave classic A Man and A Woman. The collection itself was inspired by Deauville, where Gabrielle Chanel opened her very first boutique.
Vitiello was also present to witness the riveting show, saying, “Long, flowing silhouettes and oversized straw hats perfectly depicted the enchantment of the seaside town, set against a backdrop of a boardwalk runway and dusk-til-dawn skies.”
Miu Miu
At Miu Miu, Vitiello caught up with an exciting front row, from VE’s Wonyoung, TWICE’s Momo, fashion creative Tamu McPherson, and actors Myha’la and Nina Dobrev. The fall/winter 2024 collection staged “a vocabulary of clothing” depicting the passage of people’s lives via bold prints and embellished outerwear.
Louis Vuitton
At Louis Vuitton, Vogue Philippines November cover star Heart Evangelista sits among Nicolas Ghesquière’s 4,000 plus guests to witness his tenth-anniversary show for Louis Vuitton. The fall/winter 2024 collection was part homage and part optimistic outlook for the future of the maison, as seen in pieces fashioned with sculptural tactility and a soft, fluid feel.
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