5 Things To Know About Nensi Dojaka’s Delicate AW23 Show

In a preview ahead of the show, Nensi shared details about a “snowdrop dress”—a delicate tulle silhouette scattered with Swarovski crystals, cotton balls and pearls to mimic snowflakes— which is a departure from her signature LBDs (though, those feature, too). Sequins also make an appearance, from an ultra-short miniskirt, a maxi dress and a strapless unitard.

According to Nensi, her trademark dresses remain the “focal point,” but she’s expanded her offering. “I was thinking more about the other products,” says the designer, who aimed to “step it up from last time.” Cue: flared leggings with tulle godets that unfurl at the ankle (inspired by flowers), sweatpants, bodysuits, hybrid denim jeans, which are sheer on the bottom half, and a new skirt shape made from fine jersey.

There was a lot of skin on show, but Nensi designed new outerwear, to be worn over the top of her form-fitting pieces, including a tailored coat, secured at the front with a tie, that she “loves a lot”. Elsewhere on the layering agenda: a leather jacket and a crystal-embellished faux-fur jacket.

Nensi introduced footwear for spring/summer 2023, and she’s added eight further styles to her repertoire, in new colorways. There are high heels and kitten heels, realized in velvet, leather, tulle and satin, and ankle boots. Also new? The jewelry, made in collaboration with Bunney, which takes form as sculptural silver cuffs, earrings, belt details and pendants suspended on leather necklaces.

The bright white backdrop of Alva Coachworks—a photography studio in Caledonian Road where Nensi showed for spring/summer 2023—once again played host to her schedule slot, chosen for its simplicity. Caroline Trentini, Adut Akech, Mariacarla Boscono and Imaan Hammam closed the show in a series of showstopper dresses, brought in by casting director Piergiorgio Del Moro.