The NYFW Schedule Is Here—Marni and Fendi lead the European Invasion of the Spring 2023 Runways

Backstage at the Marni fall 2022 ready-to-wear show. Photo: Acielle StyleDuMonde

Today the Council of Fashion Designers of America, in partnership with IMG, has released the schedule for the spring 2023 New York Fashion Week collections. Kicking off the shows on September 9 are Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler, who are celebrating the brand’s 20th anniversary this year. The opening slot on the schedule perhaps officially cements their status as a New York institution. 

This year, the CFDA is celebrating an anniversary of its own, its 60th, and the diverse designers on the schedule this season reflect its commitment to supporting and exalting American talent while reiterating that New York remains a vital part of the global fashion industry. 

Earlier this month, Fendi announced that it’s holding a special show on the evening of September 9, celebrating the 25th anniversary of the Fendi Baguette as well as Kim Jones’s second year as artistic director of couture and womenswear. Fellow Milanese stalwart Marni will also be showing in New York on September 10, kicking off a so-called world tour in an effort to “get closer to their audience,” as creative director Francesco Risso recently told Vogue Business’s Luke Leitch. Meanwhile, COS, the London-based minimalist haven favored by fashion fanatics, will be making its NYFW debut on September 13.

There are more than 100 confirmed labels with a mix of establishment designers like Michael Kors, Carolina Herrera, Prabal Gurung, Tory Burch, and Altuzarra along with a slew of new-generation designers who have reenergized the city’s offerings: Barragán, Batsheva, LaQuan Smith, Luar, and Willy Chavarria, among others.

“September is promising to be one of the strongest seasons in recent memory,” CFDA CEO Steven Kolb told Vogue via email. “We’re thrilled to have Tommy Hilfiger and Area back at NYFW and look forward to welcoming Fendi, Marni, and COS, whose presence reinforces the strength of the U.S. market as well as New York City’s role as a key stop on the global fashion calendar. We are equally looking forward to seeing the new collections of our 2021 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists, whose diverse voices and creativity will positively add to the week’s energy.”  

The seven finalists—which are Fe NoelSukeinaElena VelezJudy TurnerWiederhoeftBlack Boy Knits, and No Sesso (which has the second slot of the week, right after Proenza Schouler)—will have special showcases throughout the week and are certain to be among the highlights of the season. The Ukrainian label Bevza will once again be showing at NYFW, with a slot on the afternoon of September 13. Curiously missing from the schedule (so far) is Telfar, although the designer is known for always doing things his own way on his own time. Tom Ford will once again be closing the season with his show on September 14 at 8 p.m. The excitement is certainly back in New York City this season. We can’t wait. 

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