A cast of predominantly Mexican models walked the runway in looks that drew inspiration from the iconic artist.
The Colegio de San Ildefonso in Mexico City played host to Dior’s resort 2024 show this weekend, the locale informing a beauty moment rooted in the country’s perspective, along with the openness that comes with education and an alfresco setting. A cast of predominantly Mexican models walked the cultural center’s runway in looks that drew inspiration from Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, the feel refreshing and primed for seasonal recreation.
“The show is in this beautiful academy, this beautiful school—outside, it becomes too forced if you put too much makeup on. It’s much nicer if there’s a freshness to it,” says makeup artist and Dior Beauty creative director Peter Philips. “It’s almost like girls going to this school and taking in all of the Mexican culture and heritage and art and craftsmanship. There’s a freshness to it.”
To accompany hairstylist Guido Palau’s ouroboros braids—duets of plaits seamlessly connected behind the head, a visual pulled from Rivera’s Calla Lily Vendor—Philips embraced subtlety. Think: a blend of Diorshow On Stage Crayon and Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara (now featuring refillable packaging) at lash roots, but not lengths; tiny touches of powder to combat the humidity; and Dior Rosy Glow in Rosewood (with a lip to match) for a wash of warmth.
“It’s all about their natural beauty: whatever their skin tone is, whatever their nationality is, and the strength that goes with every type of girl,” says Philips, whose approach focused on plump, luminous, hydrated skin and thoughtfully emboldened brows (the Kahlo of it all). Rather than creating an overfilled power brow, Philips relied on Diorshow Onset Brow for a referential frame that afforded brows a more organic finish. “Once you work with the eyebrows, they get a more confident look. They don’t look too frivolous—it’s a strong look without being dominant.”
As it turns out, this Mexico City showing was right on time. “It’s been really intense eyes for the last few shows,” says Philips, who notes that Maria Grazia herself favors a more dramatic eye for her personal makeup. “I’ve been doing so many variations on the smokey eye, and for this show we thought, ‘Maybe let’s do something less extreme.’”
The result brings us back to what we know: When it comes to beauty, less-is-more isn’t a clichéd adage but a strong choice. “It’s not about a red lip or a black eye or highlighting or contouring,” says Philips. “It’s about embracing or enhancing their natural beauty.”
This article was originally published on Vogue.