Resort 2024

The relevance of the Costume Institute’s 2016 exhibition “Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology” grows every time we cross a new technological threshold. This year AI and ChatGPT are constant topics of conversation, including at Stine Goya, the Danish brand that was first known for hand-drawn prints. The designer and her team decided to change things up for their Artificial Infatuation resort collection. “Sometimes when there’s something that feels alien to you, the best thing is actually just to go into it,” said Goya on a call.

The press release was generated by ChatGPT and the ethereal prints were created using a tool called DALL-E, along with some human intervention. The prints take their names from the language that was used to achieve them, descriptive phrases like “smokey rose underwater,” “flowers covered in glitter in a dark room,” and “flowers in fast motion.” One motif used on a knit sweater resembles tie-dye; others, like a rose carefully placed on a slip dress and an abstract pattern on a parka, relate to Goya’s past work.

For some time now, the brand has been as much about sparkle as it is about print and color. This is partly due to the company’s expansion, but also related to the season. There are lots of dress-up options here, including a gold flower dress, an iteration of a red one from a few seasons ago, and lots of slim beaded columns. A black pantsuit with an abstract metallic logo print looked most distinctive, and the pieces could easily be worn as separates. The party mood extended into accessories, which have become more of a focus as the brand grows. Black boots with cascading pendant beads and a bag with a fringed diamante handle added a disco vibe.

Goya explained that she wanted to zero in both on the dressier, more intricately worked pieces and the more casual ones; hence the double-waisted denim. It’s unclear where a beaded hoodie falls on that spectrum, but no algorithm was needed to determine that a royal blue double-breasted blazer with a teddy-like texture paired with a generously cut pair of cargo pants in a pale almond color were Goya all the way.

This article was originally published on Vogue Runway.

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