For Rajoman, Rajo Laurel Reflects on Life and Loss
Runway

Pieces of Me: Rajo Laurel’s Menswear Debut Is a Reflection on Life and Loss

Rajo Laurel encapsulates the highs and lows of his life in Rajoman, his much-anticipated menswear debut at BYS Fashion Week 2024. Photographed by Makie Cruz

Photographed by Makie Cruz

At this year’s BYS Fashion Week, Rajo Laurel introduces Rajoman, a menswear collection that questions traditional ideals of masculinity, style, and personal identity.

There are three stories at play for Rajo Laurel’s first menswear collection: A story of light, of darkness, and of history. For Rajo’s much-anticipated debut into menswear at BYS Fashion Week 2024, the designer hoped to encapsulate the highs and lows of his personal life, with each ensemble representing fragments of his identity. 

“It’s about the memories I had with the men I’ve admired, the men I’ve loved, and the men that I’ve lost,” Rajo says. “I really looked inward, and that’s why the working title of the collection is called ‘Pieces of Me.’” The introduction of Rajoman sees the designer at his most vulnerable, reflected in the division of garments. 

Nadine Lustre backstage at BYS Fashion Week. Photographed by Makie Cruz

The first series of looks to walk onto the stage demonstrate lightness; silhouettes are blown-up and abstract, with shapes that move in a way that look and feel breathable. This is further accentuated by its textures, with garments being embellished in airy fabrics such as linen and piña, which naturally root the collection in a palette of neutral whites, creams, and browns. 

It is in this chapter of the presentation that best demonstrates his strength as a Filipino designer, with elements of the barong tagalog, pañuelo, and sarong being scattered throughout different articles of clothing. “I didn’t want to make a Filipiniana show, but I’m Filipino and I can’t help [but incorporate] this,” Rajo says. “These are the building blocks of Filipino design, and I wanted to underline that.”

Rajo’s next series of garments contrasts against the light, almost hospitable sentiments of the first presentation. The atmosphere changes as the collection transforms into something anxiety-inducing. The movement of muses becomes erratic, accompanied by fast-paced violin strings and the bellowing of bass instruments. 

Rajo Laurel’s “Pieces of Me” collection explored texture across pleats, airy linens, and pińa. Photographed by Makie Cruz
Beaded embroidery is interspersed between Laurel’s “Pieces of Me” collection. “Photographed by Makie Cruz

Visually, the black and charcoal that command each new ensemble represents the sudden shift in tone. Here, the spaciousness of the previous silhouettes are tapered, following a more streamlined approach that allows for more natural draping against each frame. Rajo’s love for Japanese design elements are also apparent, as tops and trousers take inspiration from the kimono and haori, with sashes being loosely tied in knots that add layers to each base look. As a result, silhouettes feel reminiscent of traditional Japanese robes, with Rajo explaining that these designs reference not only their aesthetics, but “gender bending, gender neutrality in fashion, and genres of music like New Wave.”

Another aspect of Rajo Laurel’s life that is imbued into his work is his family history. “I took a lot of inspiration from my grandfather,” he says. “I fell in love with the types of [military] uniforms he used to wear, and you could see a lot of that in the construction.” 

Designer Rajo Laurel backstage at BYS Fashion Week. Photographed by Makie Cruz

The final chapter to his first menswear collection was an homage to his past, featuring heavy, double-breasted trench coats, accentuated by other military-inspired details such as fatigues and beret caps. 

With his first menswear show as a designer, the interdisciplinary creative knew that he wanted to do more than to wear his heart on his sleeve. Apart from being a collection based on memory, Rajo wanted to spark conversations with regards to what men are expected to wear in this day and age.

“[During the show] I wanted people to experience a gambit of emotions, whether that is a feeling of excitement, of fear, of anxiety, or nostalgia,” he explains. “At the end of the day, Rajoman is an essay on the ideologies of menswear. ‘Is this menswear? Is this something suitable for the modern man?’ All these questions I try to answer with my work here today.”  

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