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Iris van Herpen Makes Plasma Dresses For Paris Couture Week

Photographed by Steph Pedersen

For her latest collection, Iris van Herpen harnesses plasma, the fourth state of matter responsible for fire, lightning, and the aurora borealis, transforming elemental force into otherworldly creations.

You can count on one hand the number of designers who make haute couture feel like scientific research, and Iris van Herpen is undoubtedly at the top of the list.

Throughout civilization, human innovation has long mimicked nature, but this season, Van Harpen looked beyond Planet Earth and skyrocketed into the unseen forces that shape the cosmos. Titled “Sonic Starquakes” and attended by the likes of Becca Bloom and Daphne Guinness at the Élysée Montmartre, the collection of 17 looks translated stellar vibrations, plasma currents, spiral galaxies, and exploding supernovae into couture.

The runway’s most extraordinary design, the Helix Nebula, stands as the first couture garment in history to incorporate physical plasma through a crescent moon glass tube suspended on tulle that reacts to the body’s electromagnetic field. Elsewhere, Fractal Universe, developed with scientist Dale Sulak, harnessed the power of millions of electrons to create lightning-like Lichtenberg figures, allowing nature itself to complete the garment’s final silhouette.

Check out all the attendees and looks from the show below.

Frequently Asked Questions

Iris van Herpen is a Dutch fashion designer known for creating innovative haute couture that combines traditional craftsmanship with technology, art, and science. She launched her namesake label in 2007.

She is best known for her sculptural couture designs and for pioneering the use of 3D printing and other advanced technologies in fashion.

Iris Van Herpen draws inspiration from nature, movement, architecture, dance, biology, neuroscience, magnetism, sound waves, and the unseen forces that shape our world. She frequently collaborates with scientists, architects, artists, and engineers to translate these concepts into wearable couture.

She has been worn by celebrities including Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, Cate Blanchett, Scarlett Johansson, Natalie Portman, Rihanna, Jennifer Lopez, and Gigi Hadid. 

Her designs are held in major museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Victoria and Albert Museum, and the Palais de Tokyo. 

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Lawrence Alba

Fashion Writer

Lawrence Alba studied BA Fashion Communication at Central Saint Martins in London. He interned with System Magazine, The Row, AIPR, and Glamcult Studio.

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