TheVogue Philippines October issue spotlights innovative interlocking and experimentation with these homegrown designers.
There’s something undeniably pleasing about knitwear. These versatile yet playful garments are a refreshing approach to staying warm and cozy ahead of the rainy season. Derived from the centuries-old practice of knitting, the different forms of the craft prove that knitwear is boundless. With modern weaving, experimental knitting, and crochet, homegrown designers are reimagining the art of knitwear in new ways.
There’s a multitude of respected knitwear brands worldwide like Khaite, The Row, YanYan Knits, Ganni, and Rui Zhou with lengthy leisure sets, luxurious knitwear, and ribbed silhouettes in tow. However, there’s an assortment of homegrown brands right here in the Philippines that can provide you with the same sartorial dose of joy-inducing knitwear.
InVogue Philippines’ October 2022 issue, we have newcomers Ni Raya, Yvette’s Bags, Ilyang Ilyang, Rod Malanao, Trinie Pauline, Darlenne Rivera, Mary Lim, and Made by Eisley pushing the boundaries of their craft through experimental pieces that bring a contemporary edge to the issue. We also have knitwear veterans Tan-Gan and Jaggy Glarino with chunky statement-making creations and artful designs. With interesting combinations of optimistic colors and snug ensembles, these designers are stretching the limits of their line of work. Below, Vogue Philippines gives you a run-down of the Filipino-owned brands that prove knitwear is seasonless, yet impactful.
Rod Malanao is known for his delicate knits that cling to the body. Sensual and dynamic, these vibrant pieces accentuate one’s form with suggestions of exposure. In vivid hues, each garment is inspired by modularity and versatility. Malanao says, “I have always been interested in pieces that are more than what it’s perceived as. Correlating that with knit’s ability to expand and contact, I wanted to explore the possibilities that’s in between the lines.” Malanao translates the notion of quiet comfort that knit provides into pieces that push you to be comfortable within your own skin.
In Vogue Philippines’ October issue, Malanao’s dress is found in an electric lime color. Revealing hints of skin underneath, Malanao’s form-fitting garment highlights the body and its contours.
Jaggy Glarino’s bespoke pieces are sculptural and embody his interaction to knit (created either through synergy or tension towards the material). His most recent custom knitwear piece was created for Nadine Lustre where he attempted to introduce the idea of melding through various mediums and techniques. He integrated digitally printed fabrics with his signature sculpted knitwear to create a statement-making piece for the A-lister.
When asked about pushing the boundaries of Philippine knitwear, Glarino states, “I feel like we should acknowledge the problem, that most knitwear pieces are made abroad where the need and use of such garments are very different. Doing this gives us the chance to explore and innovate, and that is the next step that we are taking as a brand. Creating a locally produced knitwear that is tropical climate-friendly is our idea of pushing the envelope.”
Glarino’s pieces in the latest issue includes an over-sized chunky knit sweater, a cardigan with cut-outs, and a striped distressed number that plays with form and proportion—a captivating twist on conventional knitwear.
Constantly exploring and experimenting with crochet, Ilyang Ilyang brings an avant-garde approach to the craft. Always drawn to subjects that provide a playful twist, founder Daphne Chao’s signature pieces range from timeless everyday wear to eccentric garments. Chao explains, “I take inspiration from just about anything really. Because I don’t let myself get tied down to one style, I’m free to do whatever I want. Some ridiculous ideas turn out to be brilliant. My Produce Vest, for example, was inspired by an easter egg hunt. My Egg Bra is another example of a piece that exists just because. Unnecessary necessities like these bring me so much joy. ” Ensuring that each piece is breathable, every detail is carefully curated by Chao including its materials. She focuses on the form, function, and the novelty of each piece showcasing the brand’s quirkiness.
Ilyang Ilyang’s Tail Bag makes its debut in our October issue. With a lengthy handle that extends beyond the dress, the two-toned forest green and light blue piece plays with proportion and intrigue.
Mary Lim embraces feminine silhouettes, portraying excitement, freedom, and empowerment for the modern individual. By experimenting with fabric manipulations, the designer draws from a place of positivity to create equally uplifting garments. The designer explains, “Fashion is so broad, versatile, and innovative that it doesn’t have to be restricted to only using traditional textiles when it comes to making knitwear. Thus, it enables me to explore various textiles and other unconventional materials.”
Lim delves further into her exploration of knitwear by going beyond her comfort zone and sources materials that are compatible with the tropical weather. Lim says, “It allows me to manipulate and refine these materials to develop assortments, create sample designs, and turn them into something exciting and eye-catching.”
For this month’s issue, the designer created an enthralling set in a shocking pink tone. A complete ensemble of a corset, fringe top, skirt, and underwear to match, the intricate designs pay homage to the transformative power of the fringe. Layers of the knit are paired with interlocked loops covering one’s shoulders—a creative take on knitwear.
Ni Raya’s signature style revolves around aesthetic circles and foundational silhouettes which are elevated through fabric manipulations. The label’s debut collection titled Sa Pula, Sa Puti references the sport “sabong”—one of the oldest traditions of the Philippines. Referencing the roosters found in the sport, each garment highlights texture to allude to the animal’s feathers.
Designer Raya Aleczandra Abastillas creates slashes within the denim found in her garments to represent the brutality of the sport. In contrast, she juxtaposes this rough element with colorful soft yarns and textiles. With help from Judith Basco of The Art of Yarn, Abastillas highlights the intricacy of contemporary weaving through her statement-making pieces. Abastillas states, “Fashion is highly subjective and should not impose any limitations based on conformities and stereotypes. I believe that you can wear whatever you want, whenever you want!”
Ni Raya’s woven set found within the October issue is an explosion of color with an assortment of textures found in a mood-boosting color palette.
Designer Trinie Siasat of the brand Trinie Pauline focuses on expanding the boundaries of crochet throughout her designs. Always in the pursuit of deviating from the traditional method of crochet, Siasat puts her own spin on her custom crochet garments. By translating her negative emotions into works of art and a form of self-expression, her pieces are woven with a thread of optimism.
Trinie Pauline’s candy-colored pieces comprise a tightly-crocheted purple ombré top and a breezy dress due to its slightly see-through nature—a quintessential tropical necessity.