“I’ve been going for a long, long, long time. Every time I visit, I think, ‘Why am I not shooting here?’” by Jean Pablo Vialle, Courtesy of Rafe New York
For Spring/Summer 2025, Rafé Totengco’s latest collection draws inspiration from his annual winter breaks.
“When I first visited Miami, I saw Gianni Versace strolling down South Beach, casually holding a magazine and a coffee. It was such a moment,” recalls Rafe New York creative director Rafé Totengco, reminiscing about his early visits to the East Coast in the mid-nineties. Miami, with its pastel Art Deco buildings, vibrant Lilly Pulitzer prints, and palm-lined streets, has long been a playground for the rich and famous.
“For me, coming from the Philippines, Miami was the closest I could get to tropical weather and the beach,” he says, seeking a warm refuge from New York’s harsh winters. “Every time I visit, I think, ‘Why am I not shooting here?’”
Rafe New York’s Tropical Modernism collection is his ode to Miami’s sun-soaked beauty, intertwined with the rich craftsmanship of Filipino design. “I’ve always been obsessed with things that are handmade,” he shares, citing solihiya, a traditional Filipino weave, which he reimagines in luxurious leather for his Jamie clutch.
“I like things that, when you look at them, you know they’re not mass-produced,” Rafé explains. This philosophy shines through in pieces like the Tamu clutch, featuring hand embroidery on raffia and ombre-dyed buntal straw with semi-precious stones. The Alessandra clutch and Lauren basket tote showcase intricate rattan and wicker weaving, timeless materials that have long been a cornerstone of the brand’s identity.
Rafé’s client base is small but fiercely loyal, with even Charlotte York from And Just Like That sporting one of his bags. Production is intentionally exclusive, with runs of just 50 or 60 pieces. “When it’s gone, it’s sold out,” Rafé says.
Many of Rafé’s designs are named after the muses who inspire him, like the Alva hobo bag, named after Alva Chinn, a former Halston model from the ‘70s. Much like Jane Birkin’s famous request to Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight, Alva had a series of requirements for her perfect bag. He took note, crafting a piece as distinctive and timeless as its muse.
As Rafé works on his upcoming Fall/Winter collection, currently receiving samples from the factory, he keeps one truth in mind: “As a designer, we’re never done. You’re only as good as your last collection.” His insatiable goal, he says, is always to figure out “how I’m going to seduce you to buy again.”
Photographer: Jean Pablo Vialle. Stylist: Ron Laxamana. Hair and Make Up: Gina Simone. Model: Avony Brutsche.
