Jewelmer Shares Its 377-Step Pearl Production Process

It takes five years to produce a single golden South Sea pearl. Here, French-Filipino brand Jewelmer gives a glimpse into its 377-step pearl production process.

When French pearl farmer Jacques Branellec sailed to the Philippines, he was in search of a location for a pearl farm. It would then come as a joint venture with Filipino entrepreneur Manuel Cojuangco, and together they established Jewelmer in 1979. Since then, the Maison has prided itself on its lustrous golden South Sea pearl, the star of all its jewelry designs, crafted with traditional French techniques.

Coming from the oyster species, Pinctada maxima, Jewelmer’s golden South Sea pearls are defined by their radiant glow, their warm hue, their large size, and their unique skin purity and shapes. To achieve such quality, each pearl goes through 377 steps, from the hatchery to harvesting.

Hatchery

The grow-out stage spans two to three years, when young oysters are placed in the open sea. Courtesy of Jewelmer

After decades of research, Jewelmer pioneered a non-extractive farming method, ensuring that Pinctada maxima oysters are bred in protected environments. Courtesy of Jewelmer

The process begins in the hatchery, where parent oysters are selected and chosen to breed the “perfect” golden pearl-producing oyster. Each parent oyster is carefully selected for its genetic makeup to produce lustrous gold nacre, which can be passed on to future generations. These specific genetic traits are influenced by the donor oyster, which determines the pearl’s golden color. With marine conditions constantly changing, the oysters must also be adaptable and have a high survival rate to withstand the tropical climate.

Grafting

The grafting stage is considered the most delicate, as it determines the pearl’s future potential. At this stage, a trained master grafter implants a bead nucleus with a piece of mantle from a chosen donor oyster into the gonad of the parent oyster. Jewelmer notes that the technician’s skills are crucial for this process, with its technicians taking years honing their craft.

Their mindset is equally important, as they believe that the technician’s care and energy reflect the oysters’ well-being. Over time, the mantle becomes a pearl sac that surrounds the nucleus and deposits layers of crystals that will become the pearl.

Post-Operation

After the delicate grafting process, the oysters are put in baskets to convalesce for three months. During this time, aside from the interventions of cleaning and positioning, the oysters are allowed to recover by allowing the natural marine environment to support them.

Cultivation Period

Jewelmer’s pearl farms are located at the center of the Coral Triangle, home to an influx of marine and coral biodiversity. Courtesy of Jewelmer

The oysters are placed in baskets and nets in the ocean, regularly turned and cared for by pearl divers. Courtesy of Jewelmer

About two to three years pass for the pearl oysters to deposit layers of nacre around the inserted nuclei. The oysters are still regularly turned, cleaned, and closely monitored. During this stage, there are regular observation dives in which qualified officers and experienced divers assess their condition. This period also receives a high level of attention, as the oysters are at their most sensitive.

Harvest

With the right timing and conditions, as well as years of patient care, the master grafter extracts a lustrous pearl from the oyster. Courtesy of Jewelmer

As vibrant and as diverse as the communities that nurture them, Philippine South Sea pearls come in a range of warm colors. Courtesy of Jewelmer

The final stage of the four to five-year process ends with the harvesting. According to Jewelmer, only two percent of the harvested pearls meet the criteria and are used in its creations. The master grafter who did the initial operation harvests the pearl, and it is then decided whether the oyster can still undergo a second operation before the next grafting begins. Only the oysters that produce high-quality South Sea pearls are chosen to continue another cycle of pearl cultivation.

The Swan necklace pays tribute to the most elegant and enigmatic of animals. Elements of earth, air, and water find graceful form in this golden creation. Courtesy of Jewelmer

Each pearl shape (such as semi-round, keshi, drop, oval, button, and circled) is a showcase of nature’s charming beauty. Courtesy of Jewelmer

The Pamana Brooch features the sarimanok, a legendary creature of Philippine folklore long believed to bring luck and good fortune. Courtesy of Jewelmer

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Jewelmer?

Jewelmer is an international high jewelry Maison established in 1979 by French pearl farmer Jacques Branellec and Filipino entrepreneur Manuel Cojuangco.

Who owns Jewelmer?

Jewelmer was co-founded by Jacques Branellec and Manuel Cojuangco, but today the company is led by Jacques Christophe Branellec, the chief executive officer.

What is Jewelmer known for?

Jewelmer is best known for cultivating and designing fine jewelry using rare golden South Sea pearls. Aside from the pearl, it is also known for using French fine jewelry techniques and for its sustainable approach to pearl production.