The holiday season in the Philippines is a tapestry woven with tradition.
A sense of anticipation fills the air when the Amihan, or northeast monsoon, a seasonal wind pattern that occurs in mid-November, sweeps across the Philippines. The chilly morning breeze carries the pleasant aroma of traditional Filipino foods, signaling the start of Simbang Gabi, or Misa de Gallo, a beloved nine-day novena leading up to Christmas. This wonderful tradition is more than just a spiritual observance; it is also a vibrant celebration of community and culture, all of which are firmly ingrained in Philippine life.
Simbang Gabi begins on the 16th of December with the faithful gathering in churches for early morning mass. For many, Christmas is a chance to reconnect with their spirituality and express gratitude for blessings from the previous year. It is a practice that originated during the Spanish colonial period and has evolved over time into a festive occasion that embodies the Filipino spirit of joy.
To say that Filipinos are renowned for their vibrant and heartfelt celebrations of Christmas is an understatement. Because as early as the first of September, malls and supermarkets start to put up Christmas decorations and play Christmas carols over the PA system.
The joyous spirit of Simbang Gabi exemplifies this love as families gather to attend mass, often enjoying the company of friends and neighbors. The warmth of these gatherings reflects the Filipino values of community, faith, and togetherness.
One can’t go to Simbang Gabi without experiencing two of the most emblematic food items, bibingka and puto bumbong. After the early morning mass, it is followed by a communal feast on the church plaza, where improvised bamboo and nipa stalls are set up. The scent of burnt banana leaves evoking nostalgia and warmth is an invitation to enjoy these treats.
Bibingka, a rice cake made with galapong (rice flour) and gata (coconut cream) that is charcoal-baked in a shallow terracotta pan lined with banana leaves, is a national treasure. The burnt, smoky flavor, combined with the caramelized sugar and salted duck egg on top, creates a heady sensation that can only be felt at a special time where one can smell the cool morning air mixed with burnt banana leaves and the sound of crackling embers.
Meanwhile, puto bumbong, a purple rice cake prepared from pirurutong or purple glutinous rice, is steamed in bamboo tubes until it reaches a consistency of chewy yet supple rice cake. Both are served with a dollop of margarine, freshly grated coconut, and, on occasion, muscovado sugar, for good measure, a true treat that captures the essence of the season.
Beyond Simbang Gabi, numerous other traditions highlight the Filipino approach to Christmas.
Parol Making
When I was in fourth grade and able to handle basic tools, we were tasked with making parol, or Christmas lanterns, a five-pointed star made of bamboo sticks and papel de hapon (colored paper). The parol is a symbol of hope, representing the star of Bethlehem that rose from the east, where the three wise men were guided to bring them to the messiah. Traditionally, it was used by early farmers to light their paths on their way to the church, and many families engage in parol-making, often turning it into a communal activity that fosters creativity and cooperation. One notable example is the giant lanterns of San Fernando in Pampanga, where it has become a tourist attraction.
Caroling
When we were young kids, we would roam around the neighborhood with our makeshift musical instruments and sing Christmas carols in exchange for treats or coins. But it has long since grown into a more professional practice where church choirs and school glee clubs visit homes of well-to-do families. Now you have amateur groups lugging around a portable sound system with a recorded accompaniment that goes from house to house singing to the top of their lungs. Even professional singing groups complemented by a full orchestra play during Christmas tree lighting ceremonies. This joyful practice promotes community spirit and showcases the Filipino knack for music and celebration.
Monito Monita
The tradition of monito-monita started in schools as a fun gift exchange that fosters camaraderie among classmates and developed into a full-blown artform in the offices. The anticipation of thoughtful surprises exemplifies generosity and the joy of giving, reinforcing bonds among coworkers. It has become a gift-giving tradition and a favorite Christmas party parlor game similar to secret santa or kris kringle.
Participants pick a name from a box to determine who they will give a gift to. Sometimes a theme is given, and participants must choose a gift that fits the theme. Sometimes, the sillier the theme, the better. The giver remains anonymous and is only revealed during the grand Christmas party before holiday vacation begins.
There’s creativity and surprise as participants often set a budget and exchange gifts anonymously, which adds an element of excitement and creativity. It encourages thoughtful gift-giving tailored to the recipient’s interests. Monito-monita fosters bonds among participants, allowing them to express affection and appreciation for one another, and helps strengthen relationships.
Polka Dots
Filipinos wear polka dots during the New Year and Christmas holidays primarily because they believe that the pattern symbolizes prosperity and good fortune. I believe we got this from Chinese culture, where certain shapes and colors are believed to bring good luck. The round shapes of the polka dots are associated with coins, and wearing them is thought to attract wealth and abundance in the coming year. It’s a plus if one wears red with white polka dots adorning it. The Chinese-Filipino community, particularly those of Hokkien descent, has significantly shaped Filipino culture, especially in urban areas. Their customs and beliefs regarding luck, prosperity, and festive attire have been integrated into Filipino holiday practices.
Balikbayan Boxes
For families with members working abroad, sending balikbayan boxes filled with gifts and goodies has become a beloved tradition. These boxes not only bring physical gifts but also convey love and connection across distances, embodying the Filipino value of familial loyalty and generosity.
Dr. Clement Camposano, in his essay “When objects speak louder than words: food, intimacy, and power in the contemporary transnational household,” mentions that the balikbayan holds significant symbolism for Filipinos, particularly for those working abroad or living overseas. It serves as a tangible link between overseas Filipinos and their families back home. It represents love, care, and the desire to maintain ties despite physical distance.
Sending a balikbayan boxis a way for overseas workers to provide material support to their families, often filled with gifts, food, clothing, and other essentials. This act embodies the Filipino value of bayanihan, or communal unity and support. The balikbayan box is more than just a shipping container; it represents love, connection, and the enduring bond of family across distances.
Noche Buena
As Christmas Eve approaches, families prepare for Noche Buena, a grand multi-generational feast that marks the culmination of the holiday celebrations, participated in by friends, family, and extended family. This meal, shared among loved ones, features an array of dishes such as lechon, hamón, queso de bola, chicken galantina, ensaimada, and various sweet treats. The act of gathering around the table embodies the Filipino value of family, emphasizing the importance of togetherness and shared experiences.
As friends and families gather around the table laden with traditional food and drinks, we are reminded of the deeper meaning of how Christmas is celebrated in the Philippines. It is a moment to reflect on the importance of community, family, and the graces received over the year.
The Christmas season in the Philippines is a tapestry woven with traditions that highlight the essence of Filipino culture. From the early morning calls to prayer at Simbang Gabi to the joyful gatherings of Noche Buena, each custom reflects deep-rooted values of faith, community, generosity, and love. These practices not only celebrate the holiday but also reinforce the enduring bonds of family and friendship that define the Filipino spirit.
By IGE RAMOS. Photographs by COLIN DANCEL. Fashion Editor DAVID MILAN. Makeup: Gery Penaso. Hair: Mong Amado. Models: Brea Umali, Hazel Keying, Ivanna Lagman, and Missy Bendaña of Luminary Models, Marga Cortez of PMAP. Production Design: Justine Bumanlag. Producer: Anz Hizon. Production Assistant: Divine Lorenzo. Photographer’s Assistants: Titus Madrideo, Gabriel Olmillo. Lighting Assistant: Rhon Bacal. Stylist’s Assistants: Aliane Tan, Elisha Dumaliang, Neil de Guzman, Ticia Almazan. Production Design Assistants: Castor Mosquito, Jan Abal, John Amon, Jeber Cunanan, Jonel Navarro, Nick Narte, Rodel Bondoc. Retoucher: Dan Durante. Shot on location at Baked Studios.