Review: Kelvin Morales Expands on His Signature Style With “Celsius” at Fashion Week Asia

The Filipino designer explores bold color combinations while retaining the deconstructed silhouettes and gender-fluid tailoring that define his brand.

Known for his contemporary take on the barong TagalogBarong TagalogThe lightweight, embroidered formal shirt that serves as the Philippines' national formalwear for men. Worn untucked and traditionally made from piña or jusi, the barong appears at weddings, state events,Go to Barong Tagalog Glossary, Kelvin Morales couldn’t have chosen a more fitting venue to unveil his new collection than the sole surviving prewar mansion on Roxas Boulevard. At Palacio de Memoria, Morales presented “Celsius” for the inaugural Fashion Week Asia.

For this collection, the designer worked with local artists from Rizal, maintaining a touch of femininity through intricate embroideryEmbroideryThe decorative stitching of designs onto fabric by hand or machine, central to Philippine formalwear. Hand embroidery from places like Lumban in Laguna and Taal in Batangas adorns barongs, ternos,Go to Embroidery Glossary and artisanal details. It was evident how heritage weave patterns, specifically the grid motif, were modernized through contemporary streetwear silhouettes and color blocking, such as cobalt blue and mustard yellow.

On the runwayRunwayThe platform or catwalk on which models present a designer's collection to an audience of editors, buyers, and guests. Runway shows establish the creative statement of a season, and Vogue'sGo to Runway Glossary, nearly every look featured sweeping vertical extensions that created continuous movement as models walked. These ranged from floor-length translucent capes and fringe sashes to longline dusters.

Then, there is his brand DNA: Classic tailored garments were reinterpreted with open-ended proportions. Blazers were worn draped over the shoulders, traditional suits were executed as short sets or oversizedOversizedA cut that is intentionally larger and roomier than the body, producing a relaxed, voluminous silhouette. Oversized blazers, shirts, coats, and knits balance comfort with style, and they work especiallyGo to Oversized Glossary ensembles, and structured tops featured raw textures.

It was also hard to miss the contrast between hard textures and translucent materials when viewed up close, as Morales paired sheer embroideries and organic weaves with lattice aprons and bold, heavy plaids.

Just like the collection’s name, “Celsius,” the show saw the bold presentation of Morales’s new ideas. What remained unchanged, however, was his consistency in the brand’s creative direction: deconstructed traditional silhouettes and gender-fluid tailoring.