Exclusive: Kelvin Morales Makes His Womenswear Debut

After establishing himself in the art of menswear, Filipino designer Kelvin Morales enters a new chapter with Aura, a collection inspired by the idea of transformation through a snake shedding its skin.

Why should an artist be confined to a singular genre?

It seems outdated to box designers into gender-specific categories when some of fashion’s most compelling work has emerged from crossing the menswear-womenswear divide, and vice versa. Giorgio Armani started in menswear; so did Calvin Klein, Tom Ford, Hedi Slimane, Raf Simons, Thom Browne, Haider Ackermann, Stefano Pilati, Craig Green, Kiko Kostadinov, and Jonathan Anderson, before each expanded their creative universe for women. 

As the modern shopper continues to embrace fluidity, the boundaries between menswear and womenswear feel almost irrelevant. The men of today wear Lola’s pearl necklaces, dab on Issy color-correcting serum, and carry beaten-up Louis Vuitton and Goyard totes, yet it was women who first fought for the freedom to wear the trousers hanging in the men’s department.

In the Philippines, the Barong Tagalog has likewise evolved beyond its hegemonic role of dressing the male body, becoming a garment embraced, reinterpreted, and reclaimed by women. For Kelvin Morales, whose eponymous label has spent nearly a decade redefining Filipiniana through a contemporary lens, that shift has long been reflected in his devoted clientele.

With an increasing number of women wearing his signature embroidered camp-collar shirts, Morales found both the confidence and the creative permission to challenge his own craft and venture into womenswear. Inspired by the idea of a snake shedding its skin, Morales’ debut womenswear collection, Aura, builds upon the foundations of his brand through a deconstructivist approach of fabric manipulation, asymmetrical folds and cuts, modular geometric embellishments, and a retro-futuristic sensibility.

In an exclusive interview, we speak to Kelvin Morales about his womenswear debut and the inspiration behind Aura.

Vogue Philippines: You’ve become known for your contemporary take on the Barong Tagalog. What inspired you to make your womenswear debut, and why did this feel like the right moment?

Kelvin Morales: I’ve always wanted to create a womenswear collection, but I wasn’t comfortable releasing something I didn’t fully understand. I took my time observing women and identifying what I could genuinely offer. My team and I are very comfortable working in menswear and we wanted to translate the same values, craftsmanship, and attention to detail into womenswear. It felt like the right time because we were finally ready to do it with purpose.

Transformation is at the heart of Aura. How did the idea of a snake shedding its skin shape the collection?

Transformation is really the core of Aura. I like the idea that a person’s aura isn’t fixed it changes depending on where they are in life, how they feel, and what they’re going through. It’s similar to a snake shedding its skin or the idea of Snakes and Ladders—life is full of ups and downs and every experience changes you. The collection is about embracing change and allowing yourself to evolve.

Designing for a woman’s body was a new challenge. What did you learn from stepping outside your comfort zone?

One thing I learned is that a woman’s body naturally changes over time because of hormones, different stages of life, and even day-to-day changes. That pushed us to create pieces that are more flexible. Many of the garments are adjustable in width or length, so they can adapt to different bodies and different ways of wearing them.

How did you translate the tailoring and craftsmanship associated with your menswear into womenswear?

It was really about applying the same level of precision of the tailoring process. We paid close attention to pattern making and construction. Every fabric was carefully selected with intention.

Who was the woman you had in mind while designing Aura? Was she inspired by someone specific, or did she emerge as the collection evolved?

She wasn’t based on one specific person. As the collection developed, I found myself designing for someone who appreciates a more understated, “tomboy chic” style. I also kept asking myself, “If I were designing clothes for myself as a woman, what would I want?” I’d want pieces that are versatile, easy to style, and something I could keep wearing for years. That became the direction of the collection.

Was there one look that challenged you the most? What made it the most difficult to create?

The most challenging piece was the teal sheer adjustable top with embroidery and lace details. We spent a lot of time researching how to make the silhouette functional while allowing it to be styled in different ways. 

Filipino craftsmanship has always been central to your work. How did local techniques and artisans shape Aura?

Craftsmanship has always been at the heart of the brand. We continue to work closely with local artisans, especially for our embroidery and textile development.

Now that you’ve completed your first womenswear collection, where do you see the brand going next? Is womenswear here to stay?

Womenswear is now part of the brand. Moving forward, we want to continue growing both our menswear and womenswear. Our goal is to release one collection for each every year while continuing to develop our craftsmanship and explore new ideas.

By LAWRENCE ALBA. Photographs by KARL KING AGUÑA, courtesy of Kelvin Morales. Creative direction by Kelvin Morales. Styling by Geno Espidol and Anz Hizon. Makeup and Hair by Zidjian Paul.