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Vogue Philippines’ Pam Quiñones Talks Denim Tuxedoes, and Japanese Craftsmanship with Design Director Paul O’Neill in Tokyo, Japan

Crafted to be the brand’s representation of “future vintage”, the Levi’s Blue Tab Collection blends the brand’s century-long heritage with free-thinking creativity for an ensemble of wardrobe staples

For a two-day tour along Tokyo, Japan, Levi’s celebrated the unveiling of its Blue Tab Collection through a series of events showcasing the brand’s ever-evolving creative process, while also reflecting on the brand’s inspirations for its upcoming release. Attended by Vogue Philippines’ fashion director Pam Quiñones, she also shares a moment with Levi’s design director Paul O’Neill as they discuss craftsmanship, Bing Crosby, and the next generation of denim.

The event began with a morning stroll through the SAAB Group factory in the Kanagawa prefecture, where professionals provided a behind-the-scenes look into the intricacies that give Japanese denim their distinctive characteristics.

 From piles of newly dyed trousers basking in the morning sun to various detailing facilities that specialize in sanding, bleaching, washing, and more, each step also serves as an ode to Japan’s deep appreciation for indigo-colored garments which actually predates their discovery of denim clothing. 

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“I read before that they had to unlearn their specific ways of creating indigo because they had to make it in a ‘bad’ way to achieve the look of American denim. They had to stop being perfect, they had to try to find these ways to create these inconsistent consistencies,” O’Neill explains.

Photographed by Paul Paredes. Photo courtesy of Levi’s.

Following their tour was a visit to the Levi’s flagship store in Harajuku, where Quiñones, alongside photographer BJ Pascual, R’Bonney Gabriel, Kiana Valenciano, and Issa Pressman were given the opportunity to style pieces from the Blue Tab collection as well as customize their own denim pieces through the store’s in-house tailoring service.

Later in the evening, the Kimpton Shinjuku Hotel served as the location for the collection’s launch party, which featured a traditional kokyū performance and remarks from Levi’s East Asia Pacific Managing Director Nuholt Huisamen.

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As the main event of the Blue Tab Collection’s launch, a narrative-driven fashion show was held along the Shibuya ward the next morning, which displayed a cascading selection of looks sectioned into two chapters.

Quiñones recalls, “The first chapter was a collection that utilized the Red Tab pieces, styled to be a little bit more playful and trendy. There were a lot of ‘cowboy’ elements to it, but definitely a bit more experimental in execution; The second chapter was the Blue Tab line itself, which had looks that were made to have classic yet refined designs. At the same time, there were subtle structural and design changes that made the collection more interesting and I think that speaks to the sensibilities of people today.”

Photographed by Paul Paredes. Photo courtesy of Levi’s.

Along with the vision of the brand’s design director, the latest collection had actually found its initial inspiration from a tailored denim tuxedo that Levi’s had made for actor and singer Bing Crosby in the 1950s. “I think about that because I wanted to take Blue Tab somewhere where it could be more formal and sophisticated. Something that isn’t only for the streets, and I think it’s a great direction for us [at Levi’s] to take,” O’Neill expounds.

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The Dublin-native designer shared with Quiñones that the Blue Tab collection was crafted to embrace an untapped and forward-thinking sense of creativity, all while respecting the roots of Levi’s century-spanning heritage. “We’re not chasing trends but we all breathe the same air. So we’re following our senses and we’re just trying to make interesting and exciting products for today while paying attention to our history,” he shares.

With the first leg of the collection having released last February 1st in Japan, the Blue Tab Collection will see its Philippine debut this February 17th, while its Western release is set for this April in the U.S. The ensemble will feature pieces such as a two-piece suit, chambray shirts and dresses, and, of course, its signature 501 jeans which reinterprets its 1980s design with modern detailing.

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