Ermanno Scervino’s Spring/Summer 2024 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Below the ancient pillars and arches of Milan’s public university (one of the largest in Europe), Ermanno Scervino showed One of a Kind. The spring 2024 collection was “a love letter to craft,” as the designers Ermanno Daelli and Toni Scervino put it, an ode to the encompassing beauty of fashion and craftsmanship. Glimpses of nudity were graceful when combined with high-quality fabrics and floaty volumes. “We don’t like when clothes become cages to a woman’s body,” the designers stated.

Silk became ethereal and suede added solidity. Light blue was used on A-lines and spring-y appliqués made of tiny organza petals scattered on knits and generous cardigans or utilitarian parkas. It was also there in denim that instead of being actual cotton was made of crepe de chine, a different take on trompe l’oeil materials. What might have looked like golden lace was an embroidered textile instead, proving that the duo knows the craft they are talking about. Organic-shaped glasses were shown with business attire blazers, giving the looks a twist without ruining their sartorial nature.

“I am very attached to these accessories,” Scervino explained, “as our work began by producing bags and shoes, and lots of people wanted us to stick to those two areas as a brand when we, at the beginning, decided to invest in a full wardrobe.” Raffia satchels and pale-colored footwear were the icing on the cake; cat-eye sunglasses and long golden necklaces were also strong. For shoes, there were no half-measures: It was either flat and grounded Greek sandals or sky-high heels with huge platforms. “Fashion is inventiveness, handiwork, artisanship, and excellence,” said Scervino.