The mantle of distilling the essence of Mindanao’s aesthetics, writes Gino Gonzales, rests on its young designers.
“Modesty” is a celebration of modest dressing—a choice that favors less skin-revealing garments that fulfills spiritual and stylistic principles for reasons of faith or a simple personal preference to cover up. In the context of contemporary fashion, which tends to emphasize the contours and exposure of the body, modest clothing revels in forms that conceal the body.
Geometric patterns in nature’s hues are what make this striking four-part ensemble. Shaira wears a FILIP + INNA nisif-embroidered Seloton coat handcrafted by the Tboli, RAJO LAUREL dress woven by the Cordillera’s Narda Capuyan, and VALDES DESIGNS neckpiece and belt handmade by the house’s artisans. Photographed by Mark Nicdao for the April 2024 Issue of Vogue Philippines.
The assemblage is also intended as a celebration of Mindanao’s myriad of design languages in the larger context of global fashion… one that straddles the tightrope of genuine appreciation for tradition and the impulse to infuse it with contemporaneity. The mantle of distilling the essence of Mindanao’s aesthetics rests on its young designers like Abdul Gaffar, a Maranao who fuses respect for tradition with modern sensibilities.
Vinta-inspired hues make seemingly clashing elements come together—thanks to a Yakan textile head scarf from STUDIO SÜG, flounced babydoll dress from AZ FACTORY, pleated skirt from HOUSE OF LAUREL, and ring from VALDES DESIGNS. Photographed by Mark Nicdao for the April 2024 Issue of Vogue Philippines.
In highlighting Mindanao, some traditions were borrowed and conflated with contemporary garments. For instance, the Yakan’s facial painting for wedding ceremonies called tanyak-tanyak, the saruk-paka or saruk-nituan a hat made of nito from Sulu, the langkit pattern used by the Maranao as a decorative border on their landap or tubular garments, met new creations by other designers from Mindanao: Glady Rose Pantua of Zamboanga (who took inspiration from the camisa or blouse of Zamboanga’s mascota) and Filip + Inna’s creative director, Len Cabili of Iligan (who worked with the Tausug community to create a sleeveless tunic from a kambut with tiyahian or threadwork and the Tboli community for the Seloton coat with nisif embroidery).
GLADY ROSE PANTUA reinterprets the traditional mascota de Zamboanga in a soft blue hue with supersized sleeves. Draped across are STUDIO SÜG Yakan textiles, cinched with a VALDES DESIGNS belt. Adding elements of tactility are HOUSE OF LAUREL headpieces and a pair of woven trousers. The look is finished off with custom platform shoes made from wood offcuts by PHILUX in collaboration with shoe designer JILLIANE SANTOS. Photographed by Mark Nicdao for the April 2024 Issue of Vogue Philippines.
They were also joined by the AZ Factory (headed by Peter Movrin and Norman René De Vera, a British designer of Filipino descent), Rajo Laurel, Jerome Lorico (who worked with the knits and capiz shells to conjure fishing nets), and Inno Sotto, who created garments that echoed the ethos of modesty. Pieces by Valdes Designs and Studio Haring (a chest plate made of vintage Philippine coins) mirrored the rich ornamentation of the region. The story was conceived by Pam Quiñones, who was born and raised in Cotabato City surrounded by the diverse indigenous cultures of the region. A radiant Shaira Ventura, a young Tausug from Jolo, was selected to don the garments.
By GINO GONZALES. Photographs by MARK NICDAO. Fashion Director PAM QUIÑONES. Makeup: Bea Mocorro. Hair: Mong Amado. Model: Shaira Ventura. Producer: Anz Hizon. Lighting Director: Villie James Bautista. Nails: Extraordinail. Production Assistant: Patricia Co. File Manager: John Phillip Nicdao. Photographer’s Assistants: Arsan Sulser Hofileña, Crisaldo Soco. Stylist’s Assistants: Neil De Guzman, Jia Torrato, Jill Santos, Kyla Uy.
