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We have come a long way in our search for straight hair. While the first straightener was invented in 1909, there were days of using an ironing board to smooth out frizz. Now we have nearly any tool and product promising sleeker strands whenever we want. But if you’re looking for a more permanent solution, a break from using a hot flatiron regularly, there’s one chemical treatment you can turn to: Japanese hair straightening.
Japanese hair straightening can be a solution to your styling woes if you want to cut your routine down and stick to one hairstyle for months on end. As a child of the early aughts and mid-2010s, I got this treatment twice a year, every year, until I graduated college. Just as I was never stressed about what to wear to school, thanks to a mandated uniform, rarely did I ever have to worry about how to style my already sleek and shiny hair. But Japanese hair straightening isn’t a one-size-fits-all treatment, and there are a couple of things you should know before making the commitment—because it is a pretty big one where hair is concerned.
What Is Japanese Hair Straightening?
New York City board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, MD, says Japanese hair straightening (also called thermal reconditioning) is a chemical hair treatment that restructures bonds in your hair strands to straighten and smooth them out. Dr. King explains that the process uses a combination of chemical solution and heat to break and reform the disulfide bonds in hair, permanently changing the structure until your hair grows out.
While it sounds similar to other chemical treatments, such as the Brazilian blowout or keratin-based treatments, it is different from the rest. Angela J. Lamb, MD, associate professor in the department of dermatology at Mount Sinai’s Icahn School of Medicine, says that Brazilian blowouts and keratin treatments are not permanent solutions, with more flexibility in styling.
“They’re all smoothing treatments, but they work very differently,” adds celebrity hairstylist Joseph Maine. “Japanese straightening permanently changes the structure of the hair, and it’s a full chemical process, not a coating. Brazilian blowouts and keratin treatments are semipermanent. They smooth frizz and add shine, but they wash out over time and don’t make the hair pin straight.”
The Benefits
One of the biggest benefits of Japanese hair straightening, according to Dr. Lamb, is that the hair becomes permanently straight, which provides easy styling for those seeking a consistently sleek, straight look. Maine agrees and adds that it will give you lasting shine and can be resistant to humidity and frizz.
Another added benefit is that Japanese hair-straightening treatments typically don’t use formaldehyde, unlike other similar chemical stylers; they use different chemical agents to restructure bonds. (Maine emphasizes that it is still a strong chemical treatment, however, so you still want to be careful when deciding where to get it done.)
Dr. Lamb says that if you have strong, healthy hair and have not gone through a lot of bleaching or other harsh chemical styling, this could be a good option for you. But if you’re someone who wants to switch between straight and curly styles, Main says you may want to rethink this permanent solution.
The Downsides
There are a few downsides to Japanese hair straightening that you should be aware of. Dr. King says the process may weaken or dry hair, especially if your hair is already in a fragile state or has been through other chemical treatments (such as dyeing or bleaching). The treatment is also expensive and time-consuming (more on that later), and it requires strict aftercare and regular touch-ups, so it’s definitely worth considering whether you’re up for this type of commitment. She adds that it limits what you can do to your hair in terms of styling, as it won’t hold waves or curls.
Japanese hair straightening is also not suitable for everyone. Maine says that very fine hair or hair that has been heavily bleached or lightened should avoid such a strong chemical process. King agrees and adds that if your hair is already fragile from previous repeated chemical processing, it’s best to opt out of this.
The Treatment
Be warned: Japanese hair straightening is a long process. Experts say it can take many hours, depending on how much hair you have and how wavy or curly your natural hair is. You can expect your hair to be first washed with a clarifying shampoo before your stylist applies the chemical straightening solution.
Maine explains that the chemical solution used is meant to break down the hair’s internal bonds to start the straightening process. It will sit on your hair to set (how long this takes will depend on how long and wavy or curly your natural texture is) before being rinsed off. Your stylist will then blow-dry dry hair and flatiron it in small sections, which he says is meant to set the new straight structure. A neutralizing solution will then be applied to re-bond the hair and lock everything into shape, followed by another rinse and styling session, according to Dr. King.
Post-Treatment Care
Taking care of your hair after a treatment is pretty easy. Maine says that you should not tie, bend, or wash hair for at least 48 hours afterward. Then it is recommended that you use gentle, sulfate-free shampoos.
Dr. Lamb recommends avoiding excessive heat styling (use a heat protectant for the times that you do), and Maine adds that you’ll also want to avoid overlapping other chemical treatments, like bleaching or perming, to keep hair healthy. You’ll also want to consider incorporating a good hydrating mask or leave-in conditioner since the treatment might leave hair more porous or dry. And the last pro tip? “Regular trims and conditioning treatments keep hair healthy and glossy,” he says.
How Long Do Results Last?
As mentioned before, Japanese hair straightening is permanent—but only on the parts of hair that are treated. Main explains that when new hair grows in, it won’t be as straight as the rest of your hair that has undergone permanent straightening. For that reason, touch-ups every 6 to 12 months are recommended, depending on how fast hair grows or how noticeable the texture difference becomes.
How Much Does This Treatment Cost?
Although it can depend on various factors, Japanese hair straightening in general can be pricey. “It varies based on salon, skill level, location, and hair length [or] thickness,” says Maine. “But typically, [treatment] ranges anywhere from $400 to $800 [or more] because of the time and precision involved.”
So if you have the means, patience, and—most importantly—a love for pin-straight hair, ask your stylist if this is something you should consider. Though I haven’t gone back to get my hair chemically straightened in over a decade, I do almost miss the ease of having my hair already set. What a simpler life it was.
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This article was originally published on Vogue.com.
