Air drying has become a more favorable approach to caring for your hair in recent years—it was rumored to make each strand stronger and healthier. But here’s a surprising fact: Air drying can cause more damage to your hair than blow drying it, depending on your technique.
“It may seem counterintuitive since we’re all aware of heat damage,” hairdresser Dejan Garz explains. “However, blow drying is actually gentler on most hair types.” Below, he shares professional tips on how to dry your hair as gently as possible.
Why is blow drying better for your hair than air drying?
“Our hair is incredibly prone to damage when wet,” explains Garz. “Shampoo and warm water open up the cuticle layer, making the hair prone to friction—like rubbing against clothing or a pillow—which can cause breakage. The longer the hair stays wet, the more susceptible it is to damage.”
If your hair is bleached, highlighted, dyed, or chemically treated, it’s even more important to use a hairdryer. “The cuticle is already compromised, so it’s crucial to dry your hair quickly to prevent further damage,” advises Garz. He also warns against going to bed with wet hair, as prolonged friction against a pillow can lead to hair breakage and split ends.
Dry your hair gently
Ideally, you should avoid going to bed with wet hair, but if you’ve never colored your hair and don’t frequently style it with a straightener or curling iron, your hair will forgive you for air drying it during the day. “Natural curls, in particular, look nicer when they’re air dried. Even if you blow dry with a diffuser attachment on a gentle setting, the airflow can cause the curl structure to not fully set, which leads to frizz and eventually split ends,” says Garz.
Regardless of which way you choose to dry your hair, a good microfiber towel will make a huge difference by absorbing water, making the process much speedier. “A towel turban should only be left on the head for a few minutes until the hair is slightly dry, and not for two hours,” he adds.
How to blow dry your hair correctly (and gently!)
Then it’s time to blow-dry: “Make sure you apply heat protection before you begin and dry the hair at a medium temperature. You should not set the hair dryer at a temperature that’s too hot, otherwise, blow drying is no gentler than air-drying.”
It’s best to hold the hairdryer so that the air flows from roots down to ends, even if that means drying the hair upside down. “Otherwise your hair will get tangled and frizzy,” he says. It is worth drying your hair in sections, starting from the roots and working down, using a round brush to add smoothness and volume. Finish with a cool blast to seal the cuticles and maintain the shape and volume of your mane throughout the day.
This article was originally published on Vogue.com.