Kenzo’s SS24 collection bridges the gap between Japanese style elements and classic French tailoring
“To prepare for the future, we look to the past.”
This has been the ethos behind Nigo’s approach as the artistic director behind Kenzo, who took up the mantle in 2021. Since then, the Japanese fashion designer has established himself as not only a force in street styles and hip-hop, but also as a visionary in the realm of high fashion.
Throughout each collection, he sought to incorporate the cross-cultural values embedded into the Maison since its founding by Kenzo Takada. In some ways, Takada’s journey as a designer mimics that of Nigo’s, being both Japanese fashion designers that took their Asian influenced styles toward a global stage. The two also share a similar visual language, with the pair mending the spontaneity and robustness of Japanese style into the more structure-driven construction of European fashion.
This shared language continues to translate toward each current release by the House, as it is a prominent feature for Kenzo’s latest Spring-Summer 2024 collection. The collection was initially presented within different landmarks in Paris, namely, the Passerelle Debilly, the Palais de Tokyo, and the Eiffel Tower, each highlighting the storied structures located within the French capital. The use of these landmarks were also meant to act as a symbol that paid homage to the styles of its past and present artistic director, as it reflects the dynamic nature of Japanese tailoring in contrast to the rigid elements of Parisian architecture.
Their new Spring-Summer 2024 collection features a number of garments that blend Nigo’s robust, street-influenced styles with traditional European construction. For example, a number of long overcoats are seen draped across monochromatic looks, each lined with the “Kenzo” name across its lapels, buttons, and outer lining. Structured blazers and pea coats are also adorned with a floral motif, with versions of a rose being hand-painted across the breast that draw eyes toward the center of each garment.
Alternatively, the collection also highlights the use of Japanese denim as one of its defining elements. Full denim ensembles can be seen strutting the walkways of Paris, which includes a three piece suit, skirts, and long cardigans that are each colored in a dark shade of indigo.
The fusion of styles continues to be a recurring theme throughout the presentation, as various pieces are also made to resemble certain elements of Japanese attire. Rounding out the Spring-Summer looks are a series of blazers, tuxedo jackets, that incorporate components of a traditional haori or kimono, which have each been elongated across its sleeves that add depth to the overall silhouette.
In comparison to the Maison’s past collections, Kenzo’s Spring-Summer 2024 further taps into its Japanese roots alongside European tailoring. With Nigo at the helm of its artistic direction, Kenzo’s future will continue to be directly tied toward its past, as he continues to honor the cross-cultural dialogue that initially defined their identity.
In the Philippines, Kenzo is exclusively distributed by Stores Specialists, Inc., and is located at Greenbelt 3, Makati. Visit www.ssilife.com.ph or follow @ssilifeph on Instagram for more information.
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