Photographed by Karlo Torio
Photographed by Karlo Torio
In partnership with Vogue Philippines, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle journeys to Manila to launch the Red Gallery, the first pop-up of its kind in the world.
The Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle grants perfumers total freedom to create, furnishing them with exceptional raw materials, and imposing no time or budget limits and no marketing constraints. These perfumes are housed in the French fragrance brand’s boutiques all over the globe, which are designed with their own distinctive personalities. Most recently, Frédéric Malle brought their sensorial experience to Manila through the Red Gallery, a first-of-its-kind pop-up in the world.
Anchored on collaboration, the brand was born in 2000 from its namesake’s desire to bring master perfumers to the fore. After years in the industry, where Frédéric Malle spent much time working with perfumers daily, he learned that these expert noses often felt like ghostwriters; a common misconception was that fashion designers like Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, or Christian Dior had created their brand’s perfumes themselves. Malle soon assembled what he calls “a little club of the very best perfumers in the industry, like a publishing house would have a stable of writers.” He likens himself to an editor. In the book of memories, the chapter on scent is the most beguiling one.
Over two decades on, the house continues its commitment to craftsmanship and the empowerment of its perfumers. Every box and bottle is emblazoned with the collaborator’s name, and throughout a scent’s development process, the master perfumers are given full creative reign.
This philosophy was highlighted in their Manila pop-up, a large scarlet space located by the entrance of Greenbelt 5. Guests were welcomed with a glowing tunnel, shaped like a Frédéric Malle perfume bottle—unlike other fragrance lines that constantly introduce new bottles, the French house retains the shape of theirs, mirroring their belief that what truly matters is what’s inside. To one side of the tunnel is an interactive display where guests can explore 20 of the brand’s luxury perfumes, alongside a short description of each scent, and the name and image of the master perfumer who composed it. On a crimson wall, a timeline takes visitors through the brand’s journey from the year 2000 to the present, and further down, one can learn more about their collaboration with Acne Studios.
In keeping with Malle’s vision of the company as a publishing house, the opposite side of the room hosts what they call a “library” that introduces their master perfumers. Complete with shelves and perfume boxes lined side by side like books, the installation briefly chronicles the master perfumers’ backgrounds, process, and mentors. Beneath every name, there is a unique designation: the prodigy (Suzy Le Helley), master of sensuality (Maurice Roucel), and artist in greens (Anne Flipo), among others.
Perhaps one of the most exciting elements in the venue are the brand’s signature innovation: smelling columns. In Frédéric Malle stores, these large, clear cylindrical vessels invite visitors to step inside and be engulfed in the aroma of their choice. In Manila, the columns are scaled down, and guests can simply open a small door and lean forward to catch a perfume’s drift.
This immersive offering defines Malle’s mission to uphold a highly personalized experience. In their brick-and-mortars, specialists would profile clients and consider facets of their personality before giving a recommendation. For Malle, this staunch dedication to providing clients with the best perfumes can sometimes necessitate going beyond his own brand. “If we didn’t have a perfume which we thought was right for the person and that perfume existed elsewhere, we would send people to a competitor saying, ‘You should buy that, we don’t have anything for you,’” he explains.
For clients unable to come to their shops, a Perfume Finder service is available online. Consisting of only seven personality questions (which range from your favorite underwear to your favorite vehicle), users answer each query by selecting one to two options from 18-48 hyperspecific tiles, illustrated by Greek artist Konstantin Kakanias. “The original e-commerce site contained the first attempt, an almost Proustian questionnaire that—seemingly by magic, or intuition—produced amazingly accurate recommendations. At first, Malle answered each one personally. It was so good it’s still there, 20 years later,” a statement from the brand reads.
True enough, when Vogue Philippines editor-in-chief Bea Valdes tried the questionnaire herself, she was both ecstatic and astounded to discover her results. The three perfumes recommended to her were those she already owned.
This intimate accuracy is a testament to the level of precision and passion necessary to excel in this ephemeral craft. At Frédéric Malle, this is how things have always been done: Carnal Flower, the tuberose-based perfume by Dominique Ropion in collaboration with Malle, took 690 attempts to achieve this polished masterpiece. “I counted them,” Malle says with a slight smile, “at the end I was so frustrated and furious, but I mean it was worth it. It was great.”
For more information, visit Frédéric Malle’s official website.
