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How One Wristwatch Changed the Course of Precision Watchmaking

Presented in 1922, the Submarine marked the first step in Hans Wilsdorf’s efforts to create a completely sealed watch case. Photo courtesy of Rolex

Rolex celebrates the Oyster’s 100th Anniversary with a retrospective on the watch’s impact on precision timekeeping

“Why then the world’s mine oyster, which I with sword will open,” says Ancient Pistol  in 1602’s The Merry Wives of Windsor

When a passing phrase from a Shakespearean play became the very solution to an early wristwatch’s design flaw, a century-spanning heritage of mechanical innovation was then born on the streets of Geneva. In 1926, Hans Wilsdorf, founder of Rolex, launched the first Oyster to skeptical eyes. At the time, pocket watches served as the primary means for timekeeping, as wristwatches lacked precision and were more vulnerable to external damage, making them closer to jewellery rather than reliable timepieces.

First Oyster, 1926. Photo courtesy of Rolex

The Oyster’s inception, however, marked a breakthrough in watchmaking with its fully waterproof and dustproof design. So in 1927, Wilsdorf decided to prove his concept under real-world conditions, lending the watch to British typist and swimmer Mercedes Gleitze as she crossed the English Channel.

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This moment not only marked her as the first woman to achieve such a feat but also solidified the Oyster as proof of the founder’s conviction, becoming the very foundation of Rolex’s ensemble of timepieces in the years that followed.

Hans Wilsdorf, founder of Rolex. Photo courtesy of Rolex.

From the advent of aviation and subnautical exploration to the wrists of history’s figureheads in political, athletic, and creative evolution, the Oyster, and all its distinctive variations, became a companion to those who pursued beyond the limits of their craft.

In 2017, director and screenwriter Martin Scorsese became a member for his achievements in storytelling; Rising tennis stars and Rolex Testimonees Carlos Alcaraz and Ben Shelton, became a member of the Rolex family of Testimonees, and Iga Świątek, were later regarded for their athleticism in 2024. And just last year, under the Perpetual Arts Initiative, Emmy Award-winning actor and producer Zendaya also became a Rolex Testimonee for being a creative force in expanding the boundaries of modern cinema.

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First Oyster, 1926. Photo courtesy of Rolex
First Oyster, 1926. Photo courtesy of Rolex

Today, Rolex continues to refine its enduring design, expanding its Superlative Chronometer certification to include three new testing criteria for magnetism, reliability, and sustainability. In celebration of the Oyster’s 100th anniversary, Rolex unveils its latest Oyster Perpetual 41  in a yellow Rolesor edition. Made primarily of Oystersteel with a yellow gold bezel, the piece features Rolex’s green-and-gold color palette throughout the watch face’s details, with its crown bearing the brand’s logo and a distinctive “100” directly below it.

Watch the Oyster Story on YouTube. Visit the Rolex website to learn more.

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