“Sugar Tops” Anyone? Phoebe Philo’s Latest Is Seriously Chic—And Serious About Fun

Due in stores and online starting next February, Phoebe Philo’s “Collection D” will align with the on-sale date of the spring 2026 collections we’ll see in September and October, when nearly a dozen newly appointed creative directors unveil womenswear visions for their respective brands. With so many designers debuting, and so much riding on these relaunches in a slackening luxury market, spring ’26 is bound to be an inflection point, one of those before and and after dividing lines that come around a couple of times a decade. That’s the hope, at least.

Philo herself is responsible for one of those famous fashion dividing lines; circa 2010 her first show for Celine turned a generation of women onto grown-up minimalism. Today, she’s nearly two years into her own launch, a rarity in an industry committed to keeping old names alive at the expense of cultivating new ones, and she remains committed to doing things differently. Her former deputies Matthieu Blazy and Michael Rider will be on the Paris Fashion Week schedule at Chanel and Celine, respectively, but she’s staying off the runway for now.

In fact, Philo rejects the idea of seasonal collections entirely, preferring an approach that builds upon itself. Still, with this late-July reveal, she’s out in front on the subject of what we’ll be wearing early next year and she’s advocating for some fun.

Her “sugar tops” are shirts and vests edged with deep rings of padded ruffles, precious in shape, but made from silk satin that’s washed both before and after it’s sewn for the worn, lived-in feel of a wardrobe treasure. Then there’s the chenille brindle-patterned onesie (and matching cat headpiece); with the cheeky innocence of a child’s costume, it too is a statement maker that prioritizes being easy to wear.

Elsewhere in the collection, boxy, oversized t-shirt dresses play counterpoint to some of the quirkiest pants around: feather embroidered jersey trousers and others made from shaggy floss-pink viscose hand-brushed into lively swirls. Philo’s train top will be an entrance maker whether it’s worn tossed over one shoulder, or long in back like an evening dress; bonus points for making it reversible.

As playful as much of the new lineup is, there are other nods to utility, including shirts with adjustable (read: removable) collar and cuffs. And it’s serious about chic, too—just look at the array of leather jackets, from the shrunken bomber (worn over a tailored blazer that peplums below it) to the architectural Swathe, featuring a strong stand-up collar.

What makes certain special shoes connect tends to be their mix of eccentricity and everyday wearability. This season’s contenders are sturdy, strappy leather sandals with almost hidden kitten heels. They’re one of the styles that will turn the first-ever Phoebe Philo store in London into a destination when it opens sometime in 2026. They qualify as shoes that wear you, but they’re so good, you’ll let them.

This article was originally published on Vogue.com.