5 Things To Know About Etro’s Domesticated FW23 Show

“I had just three weeks to build the first step in September,” De Vincenzo says of his first Etro collection. This season’s collection is the result of six months spent studying the roots of the Italian house, which was founded in 1968, and the importance of its textiles and signature patterns.

“Everybody thought I didn’t like paisley because I didn’t use it in September!” the designer joked ahead of the show. He disproved the rumors in Milan on Wednesday, where models walked his runway in floaty tiered dresses and tailoring all emblazoned with the print. “This is my point of view on the most important fabric and pattern of the brand,” says De Vincenzo. “I hope people enjoy it—it’s a privilege for me to work on something so special.”

De Vincenzo was preoccupied by notions of domesticity when creating his fall/winter 2023 collection. This was reflected in the boldly coloured blankets and draped cardis models wore over printed minidresses and ruffled gowns. “Nothing is really structured,” says De Vincenzo, who wants his Etro woman to be as comfortable when out and about as she is curled up at home.

The palazzo in Milan that served as De Vincenzo’s venue was dressed to look like a construction site, with plastic tarp and scaffolding set up around the pillars. The effect was of a work in progress, a nod to the designer’s relationship to the house that has become his home. “Delving into the history of a brand is, after all, an archaeological undertaking,” Etro said.

The show saw the debut of Etro Kind Knits, a new capsule collection crafted using precious upcycled yarns. These appeared as stripy button-up tanks and sweaters with criss-cross lace-up details at the neckline.