Mama Pao Transforms Into Zaturnnah! for Drag Race Philippines Season 4

Designer Eman Riñoza tells Vogue Philippines about bringing Carlo Vergara’s trans superheroine to life through a collaboration with the show’s host.

As Philippine drag continues to be elevated to the mainstage, the proverbial shoes for Paolo Ballesteros (affectionately called Mama Pao by contestants and fans alike) to fill have become increasingly difficult to step into as the episodes progress. With Drag Race Philippines on its fourth season, there is much for Mama Pao to live up to, especially when measured against the original franchise’s 18 main seasons (not counting All Stars) under the helm of Emmy Award-winning host RuPaul. 

For the Queen of Drag, Emmy Award-winning designer Zaldy has been a main collaborator in creating stunning looks for the American host. Here in the Philippines, Mama Pao draws on the breadth and depth of Filipino creativity, commissioning designers to create looks that give them a moment in the television spotlight. One of these is Manila-based designer Eman Riñoza, known for his intricate beadworkBeadworkBeadwork refers to decorative techniques involving sewing, stringing, or weaving beads into textile or jewelry pieces, a craft tradition found across various Philippine indigenous communities. Beadwork remains significant within bothGo to Beadwork Glossary and sculptural drapery. For the upcoming episode, he creates an ensemble for Mama Pao that forges a sartorial connection between pop culture and craftsmanship, featuring the LGBTQ+ icon Zsazsa Zaturnnah.

The eighth episode of Drag Race Philippines features a Maxi Challenge in which the queens give motorcycle drivers drag makeovers. This transformation of everyday working-class individuals through drag echoes Carlo Vergara’s comic book character, Ada, a gay beautician and parlorista who swallows a stone and transforms into the voluptuous superheroine with bouffant red hair, Zsazsa Zaturnnah.

Although Riñoza had worked with Mama Pao before, this inspiring transformation was a spark to his artistic flame: “It was a lightbulb moment, and from there, everything just fell into place.”

Seeing Zsazsa Zaturnnah as a symbol of empowerment for the queer community, Riñoza continued: “Where better to showcase a character like her than on Drag Race? As they say, it’s basically the Gay Olympics, so it felt like the perfect platform for Zsazsa Zaturnnah to come to life.”

Previous works of Riñoza on the show have included references to Philippine heritage. In the third season of the franchise, Mama Pao wore a salakot-inspired look to pay homage to the traditional hat worn by Filipino farmers and fisherfolk for protection from the sun. Another look featured a portrait of a woman washing her clothes by the lake for Slaysian Royale, inspired by Fernando Amorsolo’s Lavanderas.

A shift toward Filipino modernity was welcomed by both designer and museMuseA person who inspires a designer, photographer, or artist and often becomes the face or embodiment of their creative vision. Famous muses have shaped entire collections and eras of fashion,Go to Muse Glossary. “My experience working with Mama Pao this season was much like last season. She’s really hands-on with her looks. But this time, I also felt her trust in us as designers, giving us the space to express our creativity through the pieces we create for her.”

With fuchsia pink and gold embellishments, Riñoza ensured that design sensibility and technical skill remained at the forefront, despite the character’s comical origins. “In terms of the design, Mama Pao’s only note was that since I was referencing a komiks character, I had to make sure the look wouldn’t translate as costume-ish. It needed to be more fashion-forward and couture.”

Beyond drawing on his mastery of ornamentation and fabric sculpture, Riñoza also explored the use of metallic faux leather to bring the costume and couture elements together. After creating such a breathtaking look, Riñoza looks forward to future collaborations with Mama Pao. “Wherever it leads, I’m always ready,” he says.