Pexels / Maria Orlova
Whether you have dry, oily, sensitive, or combination skin, here are some tips for improving your skincare routine.
When it comes to skin, care shouldn’t be shallow. As we go through our daily lives, our skin constantly changes, and so do its needs. According to Skin 101 Clinic medical director and dermatologist Dr. Jennie Francisco-Diaz, we need to reassess our skin periodically and be flexible with our routines. “[You need to] keep tabs, stay fresh, and tweak when needed,” she says.
Whether you’re just starting with your skincare journey or reassessing your skin, here are some expert tips and advice for curating your skincare routine.
Assess your skin needs and goals
To know what products and steps to take, you should know your skin first. Is it oily, dry, sensitive, or a combination? Would you want to target your acne, add more glow to your skin, or minimize wrinkles? Knowing these things can help you understand what your skin needs, and from there, you can begin planning or curating your skincare routine.
To understand what skin type you have, Dr. Francisco-Diaz advises cleansing your skin and then watching how your skin behaves after an hour. If it’s shiny or your T-zone is greasy, you have oily skin. If it feels tight or flaky, you have dry skin. If it’s red or irritated easily, you may have sensitive skin. And if you experience a mix of reactions, you have combination skin. However, if you’re experiencing redness, irritation, dryness, and sensitivity all at once, your skin barrier might be broken.
From there, she suggests noting what bothers you: breakouts, dullness, or redness? Take notes, and then you can tweak your routine.
The three universal skincare steps you can take
You’ve probably heard of the basics: cleanse, moisturize, and sun protection. No matter what skin type you have, these three steps are the essentials in your skincare routine. A cleanser, to keep dirt and grime at bay, a moisturizer to keep the skin hydrated, and lastly, any form of sunscreen or sun protection to keep the skin safe from the harmful effects of ultraviolet (UV) rays.
Use products that suit your skin
“Your skin type is your skincare GPS,” Dr. Francisco-Diaz says. “It tells you what to embrace and what to avoid.” For oily skin, she suggests light, oil-free, non-comedogenic products and skipping heavy creams. On the other hand, harsh cleansers need to be avoided for dry skin, while adding hydrating and nourishing products to the routine. For sensitive skin, patch testing products first is necessary, looking for gentle and hypoallergenic products. For a broken skin barrier, repair with barrier-strengthening ingredients like ceramides and niacinamide.
Understand skincare ingredients and what they can do for your skin
These days, there are a lot of trending skincare ingredients: niacinamide, retinol, and vitamin C, to name a few. To know if you should add it to your routine, Dr. Francisco-Diaz says to keep it simple. “Choose ingredients that match your skin’s needs, not just the hype. Less confusion, more results!” she says.
Generally, niacinamide is a great addition, especially when it comes to calming, brightening, and strengthening the skin. Retinol is optional if you want to reduce fine lines and wrinkles. She suggests using it at night and starting slow. Lastly, vitamin C brightens and evens skin tone, and it also fights dullness.
Patch test your products before using them
Although especially recommended for those with sensitive skin, patch testing is a good practice to avoid surprises like redness or reactions. To patch test, pick a small area behind the ear or on your jaw and apply a tiny, thin amount of product. Then, wait for 24 to 48 hours to see if there’s any redness, itching, or swelling. If your skin reacts, skip the product.
Layer your skincare products correctly
“Think of it like a good outfit,” she says. “Some pieces go together, some clash.” The rule of thumb when it comes to skincare products is to start with light, then continue with increasingly heavy products. Which means, toners before gels, serums before creams.
When it comes to compatible ingredients, vitamin C and niacinamide pair well together, while retinol and acids may lead to overkill and irritation. She also reminds us to read product instructions. “Some ingredients like vitamin C and retinoids are best separated or used at different times.”
Reassess your skincare routine every three to six months
Keeping track of how your skin is responding to the routine will help you see which areas can be improved. For this, Dr. Francisco-Diaz suggests checking every 3 to 6 months to see if you’re still satisfied with your routine. Additionally, she also recommends reassessing when your skin starts to feel dull, irritated, or if there’s been no improvement, as well as when there’s a major climate change, new concerns, or product tweaks.
