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In anticipation of Paris Fashion Week, not to mention Vogue’s runway-focused eighth edition of Forces of Fashion, we’re talking about the best beauty transformations that have ever graced the catwalk. And who better to weigh in on fashion-meets-beauty history than the hair, makeup, nail, and skincare experts who have lived (and are living) the backstage life and watching it all unfold?
“Longstanding collaborations between John Galliano and Pat McGrath, Gareth Pugh and Val Garland or Alexander McQueen and Peter Philips have certainly made history,” says makeup artist and eponymous brand founder Isamaya Ffrench. While Ffrench has created her own extreme transformations (like the freaky farm animal masks for Collina Strada), she credits the work of artists and designers for pushing boundaries. Think “Thierry Mugler in his ’90s shows, creating magnificent makeup looks that transformed the models into dreamy creatures, elevating his artistry beyond fashion.”
Then, there are some who relive the moments that sweep the industry, like nail artist and JINsoon founder Jin Soon Choi, who created her own “glass nails” to compliment Vogue’s recreation of Dame Pat McGrath’s Margiela Couture glass skin this year, or Hannah Murray’s work reimagining the hair from Alexander McQueen’s SS2010 Atlantis-inspired extravaganza. For Guido Palau’s book Hair, Murray “saw firsthand how much work (and padding) went into creating that hairstyle,” Murray remembers. “It’s remarkable he did it in a show situation with that many models.” She considers the artist a “true creative genius.”
Below, nine of the most memorable moments from the industry artists who both appreciated them from afar and helped create them IRL:
Maison Margiela SS 2024 Couture (The Glass Doll Skin)
Dame Pat McGrath’s glass skin for Margiela “was a jaw-dropping moment” says JINsoon founder and celebrity nail artist, Jin Soon Choi, who’s worked with McGrath for almost two decades (for the Vogue recreation, the nail artist was even invited to recreate the moment alongside McGrath, hairstylist Duffy, and photographer Steven Meisel). “It was as if she had rewritten the rules of makeup, creating something entirely new and unexpected. The moment I saw it, I knew it would be iconic and a huge hit. Watching it go viral on social media was a testament to her genius.”
Betsey Johnson FW 1998 (The Hair Toss)
When “Alek Wek walked down the runway and threw the wig at the crowd” at Betsey Johnson’s FW 1998 runway is what hair artist and Bumble and Bumble global artistic ambassador Evanie Frausto instantly clocks as an “incredible, pure, punk rock, iconic moment.” It was a transformation into Wek’s “pure natural beauty,” he says, adding that. “It also felt very political in the right way, it really just captivated me and had my brain buzzing on so many different reasons on why she chose to throw the wig.”
Coperni SS 2023 (The Body-Paint Surprise)
“Makeup has been used in every single fashion show for decades and yet, the times when it’s been used to build a whole world around the clothes are so rare that they spring to mind immediately,” says makeup artist and Isamaya founder Isamaya Ffrench. “Bella Hadid at Coperni in Paris in 2022, where artists sprayed her body with a paint that became a dress” is one of her favorite live transformations that created its own interplay with the collection—not to mention audience expectations. “Is it fashion? Is it makeup? Is it art? That’s when beauty becomes really interesting.”
Alexander McQueen SS10 (The Mythical Creatures)
“The one show that springs to mind is Alexander McQueen’s Plato’s Atlantis show,” says makeup artist and Bobbi Brown global artistic director Hannah Murray. “These other-worldly creatures appeared from the dark with eerie, pearlescent skin and sharp, angular prosthetic cheeks and their hair was sculpted into immaculate graphic fin-like hair structures towering behind them—the girls were totally unidentifiable,” she says. “Lee was so exacting with his vision and his dark, twisted but beautiful world was so brilliantly executed here by Guido Palau and Peter Phillips. “It really took my breath away and transported me to a different world.”
Versace SS 2020 (The Iconic Chop)
“It was the iconic return of the green dress,” says hair artist Chris Appleton of being asked to accompany J-Lo for her hair glam at Versace’s Spring 2020 show. “So we were backstage with Donatella and we did a version of it,” he remembers of a longer, fuller style that we never saw. “Literally minutes before she went out on the runway, Donna Taylor came in and she’s like, I think we should cut the hair.” Models were starting to walk as he chopped about 8 inches off of the already-ready-already style. Appleton began “I’m still cutting it as she’s running to the stage,” he says of following her to the last steps before sending her into the spotlight. “It was one of the most stressful moments, but then she walked out and it was this collarbone length and it had this flip, it was actually full circle—a much more modern take on the original.”
Dior SS 2006 Couture (The Platinum Wig Parade)
“The Christian Dior Spring 2006 Haute Couture Show was the most transformative show I worked on that I can remember,” says hair artist Orlando Pita, who was, as usual, working until the last moment alongside Dame Pat McGrath. “I used platinum blonde lace front wigs on all the girls. Lace front wigs weren’t yet in fashion—this changed the game,” says Pita, who had been working with 3 factories overseas on 80 wigs months before they walked the runway. “The last 8 wigs arrived the morning of the show,” he says. “Between the makeup by Pat McGrath and the platinum wigs, a lot of the girls were unrecognizable in an eerily beautiful way.”
Thom Browne FW 2024 (The Ravens)
“The cast is transformed into Mr. Browne’s imaginative world,” says James Pecis, hair stylist and Blu&Green founder, of working with Thom Browne. Pecis counts last season’s dark and dreamy runway beauty, “a performance piece inspired by Edgar Allan Poe’s The Raven,” as one of his “all-time favorites” that truly challenged him creatively. It “made my hair stand on end! Everything was turned up to 11!” Pecis enthuses. “I was surrounded by towering models with hairpieces I’d made with my team.” It was all thanks to a very “collaborative” process that kicks off a month ahead of time: “I spend a week or two in the studio with some of my team trying different looks for the hair and sending pictures for Mr. Brown and his team to review,” he says, noting that even he didn’t know what would become of the ravens. “It’s not until the day of the show that it all comes together and you can see Mr, Brown’s full vision—the clothes, makeup, set, music, hair, casting and nails align to create characters that are beyond your wildest imagination.”
Gucci SS 2001 (The Smoke Show)
“I am especially drawn to backstage and runway photos and videos from the ’90s and 2000’s Tom Ford Gucci era,” admits makeup artist and Fara Homidi Beauty founder Fara Homidi. She calls out Kate Moss’s “creamy warm skin and smokey eyes and nude glossy lip” for Gucci’s SS 2001 show as a look that still “makes me swoon.” Besides defining post-Y2K beauty for years to come, “it was very sexy and the application was impeccable!” Homidi says. “I like that the makeup wasn’t gimmicky or trendy and the looks still hit every time! Of course, Pat McGrath is responsible for this expert look. Pat always surprises me with her ingenuity and the way she can come up with new concepts and looks after all these years!”
Altuzarra’s FW 2022 (The Mermaids)
Facialist and founder of her eponymous skincare line, Tata Harper can often be found backstage, whether hanging out with models or actually prepping them. At Altuzarra’s FW 2022, “I was backstage during the model prep, and it was fascinating to witness the transformation up close,” she remembers of makeup artist Dick Page creating a “mermaid-y” look that stunned her. “The models appeared as if they had just emerged from the ocean, with dewy, iridescent skin that captured the light beautifully,” she says. “The ethereal, aquatic vibe was perfectly in line with my passion for natural beauty that radiates health and vitality.” The chill makeup and “just-out-of-the-water glow was a powerful testament to the idea that true beauty comes from within,” Harper notes. “Being there in that moment, seeing that philosophy brought to life on such an influential runway, was incredibly inspiring.”
This article was originally published on Vogue.com.
