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For those who choose to let their silvery strands shine instead of trying to hide them—those like Jamie Lee Curtis, for example—caring for gray hair becomes an art form and a point of pride. While Curtis’s stylist Sean James is the first to recommend partnering up with a gray-hair expert such as himself (bien sur!), he and other pros also have plenty of tips for keeping gray hair healthy and lustrous at home.
The Expert’s Guide to Caring for Gray Hair
And no, that just doesn’t mean you can rotate in a blue or purple shampoo and be done with it. “Do not use purple shampoo with every wash,” James says. “Overuse can tint the hair purple, leading to the ‘purple-haired granny’ stereotype. Once a week is the sweet spot.” Of course, maintaining tone is but one part of a routine that takes gray hair’s particular needs into account. To begin, it’s helpful to understand how natural gray hair differs from other organic hair colors.
“With age, hair loses density, shine, and pigment, and the oil glands in the scalp produce less sebum,” says Ph.D. scientist, certified hair practitioner, and biotech/pharmaceutical patent attorney Dr. Gaby Longsworth. Rather than white, Dr. Longsworth notes that gray hair is transparent, almost like glass, due to a loss of melanin, which is a natural guard against ultraviolet radiation. “Gray hair lacks this natural protective mechanism, making it more sensitive to the sun’s rays, which results in the oxidation of hair proteins,” Dr. Longsworth notes. “That is why white and gray hair is more likely to oxidize, looking yellow and tarnished.” All the more reason to capitalize on care—we’ll trade “yellow and tarnished” (or, ahem, “granny”-style) for “vibrant and luscious,” please.
There’s also texture to consider. Over time, the reduction of sebum production can result in hair that feels coarse, wiry, and dry—especially for curly texture, according to Dr. Longsworth—so we should plan to adjust hair care and styling routines accordingly. Read on to discover the essential steps to make sure your natural grays make the sort of statement you want.
Remove Buildup and Metals With Chelating and Clarifying Shampoos
Before cleansing comes chelating and clarifying, particularly for those seeking bright, silvery strands fueled by a healthy scalp. Though chelating shampoos aren’t for daily use, keeping one in rotation can address underlying causes of brassiness and luster-loss, which often begin in the shower.
A favorite of industry pros, “L’Oréal Metal Detox removes hard-water metals like copper, calcium, and iron that give gray hair a yellow tint over time,” says Jeremy Pugh, a professional hairstylist and content creator. “Use it once a month if you live in a hard-water area or notice dullness.”
Word to the wise? Always follow the shampoo with a deep moisture mask or bond-building treatment. “Chelation can leave hair very thirsty,” Pugh says. For a clarifying step, Pugh likes Ouai’s Detox Shampoo. Steeped in apple cider vinegar (ACV), the treatment “resets the hair by removing buildup, pollution, and excess oils—without being as strong as a chelator,” he says. “It helps keep silver hair bright.” Pugh recommends using the Ouai product once every two to three weeks.
For similar brightening effects, Sean Michael, owner of Salon Beau in Andover, Massachusetts, likes Oribe The Cleanse Clarifying Shampoo. With a base of volcanic ash, the shampoo gently exfoliates the scalp; it also has sea kelp extract to decongest pores. Virtue’s Purifying Shampoo comes recommended by Linda Gattineri, owner of Equo Co. Salon in Del Mar, California. “This is another tried-and-true,” she says. “It contains coconut fatty acid that cleanses the hair without stripping moisture and charcoal powder to help remove mineral buildup. It leaves the scalp feeling refreshed and clean.”
Cleanse Away Brassy Hues With a Toning Shampoo
When you aren’t using a clarifying formula, choose a shampoo that enhances the look, feel, and color of your lengths. In addition to the aforementioned metals and minerals in our water, “Gray hair can turn yellow due to product build-up, heat styling, sun exposure, and other external factors,” notes Nina Rubel, creative director and head of color at Rob Peetoom Salon in Williamsburg.
In short, many factors work against keeping gray hair bright and silvery—and that’s where purple shampoos and other toning products come in. Longsworth recommends Davines’s color-enhancing purple shampoo, crafted specifically for platinum and cool blonde tones. Another violet-hued recommendation comes from Jessica Ruby, celebrity hairstylist and owner of the Flamingo Lounge Salon in Los Angeles. Ruby calls Amika’s Bust Your Brass a “gentle” antidote to yellowing, and recommends using the avocado-oil-infused formula once a week.
For his part, Pugh advises his gray-haired clients to alternate moisturizing shampoos with Oribe Silverati, a softening, illuminating silver shampoo formulated for grey and white strands. On non-toning days, James suggests cleansing with a moisturizing formula such as Giovanni Smooth as Silk Deep Moisture Shampoo, paired with its matching conditioner.
The More Moisture, The Better
“Due to the lack of melanin, gray is generally stiffer and harder to style,” Gattineri says. “Moisture treatments are an important step for keeping gray hair shiny and more manageable.” Aside from the conditioners corresponding to your chosen shampoo, a hydrating mask or deep conditioner can be a thoughtful addition. Briogeo’s mask—a perennial favorite—is known to revive dry, damaged hair after just a few uses. Innersense’s option, infused with shea butter, flaxseed, quinoa, coconut, and tamanu oils, quenches thirsty strands without weighing them down. “It leaves hair softer, smoother, and noticeably more hydrated,” Gattineri says. Michael’s pick for moisture, Alaparf Milano Sublime Shine Lotion, is a salon-quality treatment enriched with fatty acids and flaxseed extract. Meanwhile, Gattineri is fond of Oribe’s Bright Blonde Radiance & Repair Treatment. “Not only does it remove brass and brighten hair, but it contains restorative protein and oils to build strength and restore shine,” she says.
Repair Damage With a Leave-In Conditioning Treatment
Whether or not styling tools factor into your hair care routine, a leave-in serves to repair and protect sapped strands. “Because gray hair is more susceptible to damage, making sure we are strengthening and protecting the hair is imperative,” Rubel explains. “Repair masks such as K18 are a great way to reverse prior damage while protecting the hair from future stress and wear and tear.” Aside from the popular K18 treatment, Augustinus Bader’s formula is powered by the brand’s acclaimed TCF8 complex alongside supercharged superfoods and antioxidants to promote shiny, thick, hydrated strands. A Vogue editor’s favorite for infusing dry hair with moisture, Color Wow’s Money Mist harnesses amaranthus and baobab extracts to smooth the hair while keeping it light and bouncy. Meanwhile, Roz’s Milk Hair Serum—a red-carpet secret developed by celebrity stylist Mara Roszak—is formulated with hyaluronic acid and a proprietary botanical complex to restore hair and scalp health. Pro tip: “For wiry gray hair, layer a milky leave-in first, then add a small amount of cream for slip,” Ruby says.
Happy Scalp, Healthy Hair
Healthy hair starts at the scalp—and that truth stands the test of time. “Scalp health becomes even more important as hair turns gray because the scalp produces less oil, leaving strands drier and more fragile,” Gattineri says. “A balanced, well-nourished scalp supports stronger growth, better circulation, and improved hydration, which helps gray hair stay softer and shinier.” New York City-based trichologist Bridgette Hill previously told Vogue that hair serums are helpful to “provide moisture, protection, and/or styling benefits for scalp or hair fiber.” Dr. Barbara Sturm’s works to minimize dryness, oiliness, and inflammation of the hair fibers. On the other hand, Kérastase’s option uses a blend of ceramides, conditioning agents, and green tea extracts to soften hair and reduce breakage. Pugh is a fan of Act+Acre’s cult-loved serum. “It’s a lightweight leave-in applied after washing to soothe the scalp, strengthen follicles, and encourage healthy growth,” he says. “It is packed with stem cells and peptides; it’s dermatologist-approved, and it literally feels like a breath of fresh air for your scalp.” Another scalp-loving option, Aveda’s overnight serum works the late shift to nourish the scalp with hyaluronic acid, probiotics, amino acids, and medicinal herbs.
Promote Hair Growth and Strengthening
A product dedicated to strengthening pigmented and gray hair types, and even bolstering growth, is one worth investing in. Dr. Longsworth is partial to Mielle’s acclaimed oil, which boasts an impressive cocktail of castor oil, rosemary, peppermint, biotin, and tea tree oils. Then there’s Oribe’s treatment serum enriched with chia seed, bamboo, plant-based protein, and hyaluronic acid to not only fortify strands but protect against heat up to 450 degrees. “In addition to scalp care, I always remind people that hair growth really starts from the inside out,” Pugh says. He recommends the Force Factor Hair Growth Accelerator multivitamin, made with collagen, biotin, saw palmetto, and Lustriva (a patented biotin-silicone hybrid designed to support hair growth). “My clients love these capsules because they help with both growth and strength, and you actually see a difference in as little as three weeks,” he says. Ruby’s partial to Vegamour’s serum, which uses a mix of plant-based phytoactives, peptides, and stem cells to prevent thinning, reduce shedding, and strengthen strands.
Pair Hot Tools With a Heat Protectant
“When gray hair is overworked with hot tools, it can become dull and turn a yellowish tone due to the heat, so proper protection is a must,” says Rubel. While some of your chosen hair products may already have heat-protecting qualities, a standalone spray could be useful. Both Kenra and Bumble and Bumble’s formulas safeguard against heat up to 450 degrees. “For added protection, especially in humid climates, seal your style with Color Wow Dream Coat,” Pugh says. “It’s heat-activated and locks in smoothness and shine, so gray hair stays glossy, instead of puffy, for up to four shampoos.” When he’s straightening gray hair, Pugh reaches for Wella Professionals’s Miracle Oil Serum. “It won’t weigh the hair down, and it’s packed with squalane and omega-9s, so it makes the hair really sparkle,” he says.
But no matter the protectant, it’s best to tread with caution when exposing gray hair to 450-degree heat. “Hot tools can create more damage to already brittle and dry hair,” says Katelyn Ellsworth, color and extension specialist and founder of The Roslyn salon in San Diego. “If you can, use heatless curlers or let the hair air-dry. It will save your strands in the long run.”
UV Protection Is Key
Sun protection is an essential part of any anti-aging routine, and that applies to skin and hair. “Gray hair doesn’t have melanin to protect it, so the sun can make it yellow and coarse really quickly,” Pugh says. “Skipping UV protection is one of the biggest mistakes I see because most people don’t even know they need it for their hair.” Michael concurs: “Protecting gray hair from the sun is just as important as what you put on it in the shower,” he says. Aveda’s Sun Care Protective Hair Veil uses wintergreen and cinnamon bark oil to protect the hair from the sun’s drying effects, while Rahua’s UV protectant—infused with morete oil from the Amazon Rainforest—hydrates and detangles. (Bonus: It has a tropical scent laced with notes of passionfruit and mango.) Ideal for chemically treated hair, Unite’s 7 Seconds Detangler has amodimethicone, a silicone-based polymer, to prevent frizz and provide thermal and UV protection. “It’s a cult-favorite for its detangling and smoothing properties,” Gattineri says. MoroccanOil’s lightweight UV protectant, designed to safeguard the hair from brassiness, is made with sunscreens and a blend of antioxidants to ward off sun damage.
Though SPF is always the last step of a skincare regimen, the rule doesn’t quite stand with haircare. Here, the order of UV protection will vary depending on styling goals and on whether the product is a heat protectant, finishing spray, or leave-in treatment.
Lock in Moisture
“As your hair goes grey, it tends to feel more coarse, wiry, brittle, and dry,” Ellsworth reiterates. “A good-quality hair oil is a must-have if you’re looking to address these concerns and want soft and silky hair.” Delicately slather on Davines OI Oil to add shine and softness to wet or dry hair without weighing it down, especially if hair is feeling extra coarse. The Davines formula is a favorite for Gattineri, who says, “A clear oil is essential because it nourishes and seals in shine without staining or dulling silver tones.” Her other go-tos for gray hair include Virtue’s Healing Oil, which, she says, “Repairs with [patented human keratin protein] Alpha Keratin 60ku while adding weightless gloss.” Another one of Gattineri’s favorites, Oribe’s treatment stays true to its name, swathing the strands in mirror-like shine. Finally, Verb’s popular Ghost Oil—so lightweight that it vanishes into hair like an apparition—is approved for gray hair by Pugh.
Keep Up with Color
“The secret to keeping hair fresh between salon visits is focusing on shine, tone, and hydration,” says Gattineri. To keep color so fresh it sparkles between salon visits, Pugh suggests using Keracolor’s Color Clenditioner. Available in two shades of silver, it tones and brightens gray hair. Christophe Robin’s Shade Variation Mask is one Gattineri recommends to refresh pigment, neutralize brassiness, and restore vibrancy, whereas Kristin Ess’s The One Signature Hair Gloss, designed for platinum hair, is an in-shower treatment for beating brassiness and boosting shine. Similarly, L’Oréal Paris’s Le Color Gloss for Gray Hair works in the shower to boost shine and enhance color while moisturizing.
This article was originally published on Vogue.com.
