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Key takeaways
- Coconut oil has many benefits for the hair, from nourishing and moisturising to helping strengthen weaker strands.
- Coconut oil has both anti-inflammatory and anti-fungal properties, making it a beneficial addition to scalp-care routines, too.
- Coconut oil can also be used as part of your skin and oral-care routines.
Sometimes, the best beauty solutions are also the simplest. Coconut oil is one good example. Using a jar from the kitchen cupboard to achieve hair that’s hydrated, lustrous and flake-free might sound like too easy a fix, but for many, coconut oil is absolutely the answer. “During the pandemic, I started experimenting and using natural products and I was using coconut oil on my hair once a week,” says celebrity hair extensionist Priscilla Valles. “The hydration and shine it provides is beyond amazing.”
Why use coconut oil?
Applying coconut oil to tired strands makes sense. The oil is derived from raw, mature coconuts and is composed of 100 per cent, predominantly unsaturated fat. Coconut oil’s fatty acids (principally lauric acid) can improve hair health when employed correctly. There are, of course, caveats and limits to what coconut oil can offer, but the fact that it’s all-natural and usually budget-friendly, make testing the treatment for yourself worth a try. “Coconut oil has benefits for all hair types, but is best used on dry, damaged, or colour-treated hair to lock in moisture and prevent breakage,” says celebrity hairstylist Andrew Fitzsimons.
Whether you’re already a convert or just coconut-curious, here’s what you need to know about coconut oil for hair health – and how to incorporate it into your hair care routine.
What are the benefits of coconut oil for hair?
For fans of natural products and ingredients, coconut oil is close to magic. The oil is commonly used topically to moisturise skin and calm dermatitis, or swished around the mouth to the benefit of gums and teeth. Elsewhere, it can be easily incorporated as a cooking oil into a healthy diet. Not to mention the long list of benefits coconut oil has for the hair, too.
Strengthens strands
“Coconut oil is a great ingredient to implement into your hair routine because it has nourishing fatty acids, which help moisturise, prevent breakage and strengthen the hair,” says Fitzsimons. According to research, coconut oil actually reduces protein loss in both damaged and undamaged hair. Its make-up allows it to penetrate the hair shaft in order to better deliver hydration, leading to softer and shinier strands and enhanced texture.
Anti-fungal and anti-inflammatory properties
In addition to improving the health of your hair, coconut oil’s moisturising, anti-fungal and anti-inflammatory properties make it a scalp health hero, too. The oil helps to treat fungus and subsequent flaking in the short term, and some research says that it can help to repair the scalp’s moisture barrier over time.
Protects hair from heat damage
“Coconut oil can also be used in your styling routine as a natural heat protectant, to reduce hot tool damage,” says Fitzsimons. He’s right: coconut oil’s penetrative properties condition hair, seal the cuticle and lock in moisture, protecting hair from potential damage that comes with your go-to dryers and irons. The oil also helps to tame frizz, resulting in sleeker, softer styles.
Can coconut oil help hair grow?
According to Dr Hadley King, a New York City-based dermatologist, there are no credible studies that link the use of coconut oil to hair growth. “It does not directly affect hair growth, but it may provide benefits that improve the health of the hair overall.”
She explains that, because coconut oil has emollient properties, it can potentially reduce hair breakage and make hair less brittle. This results in stronger hair over time. So, while you shouldn’t be using coconut oil for the sole purpose of growing hair back, using it comes with other helpful benefits.
Can coconut oil damage hair?
Though coconut oil is a cure-all for many hair woes, there are certain application tips to take note of before you start using it.
“As a person with fine textured hair, coconut oil is actually my arch nemesis,” says Illeisha Lussiano, hairstylist and owner of New York’s The Way. “It often causes fine hair to become brittle and break.” This can happen when coconut oil is unable to penetrate inside the hair, either due to textural issues or over-saturation when too much of it is used.
“Be careful not to use it in excess,” cautions Fitzsimons. “Coconut oil will sit on top of your strands, which stops essential nutrients from penetrating inside the shaft and causes your hair to feel dry and brittle. The opposite effect of what you’re looking for.”
Even if breakage does not occur, coconut oil applied too liberally can result in hair that looks greasy and grimy, rather than healthy and nourished.
Unrefined coconut oil vs refined coconut oil
When selecting the best coconut oil for your hair, choosing an unrefined (or virgin) option is your best bet. Unlike refined coconut oil – a processed iteration derived from the dry kernels of the coconut – unrefined, pure coconut oil is crafted from the fruit while it’s fresh and is largely chemical-free.
Think of coconut oil as you would green juice: a cold-pressed option will be much closer to the source (and its benefits) than one made from dried, chemically-treated ingredients.
How often should you use coconut oil for hair?
King says this is dependent on your hair type and how you are using it. Generally, though, she recommends using coconut oil once or twice a week as a pre-wash treatment, and applying it 30 to 60 minutes before rinsing it off.
If you’re looking to use it as a conditioner, she says you can use it as often as you shampoo, applying tiny amounts on damp ends after washing your hair. As a scalp-massage oil, she recommends using it occasionally, or a maximum of once a week.
How to apply coconut oil to hair
Applying coconut oil to your hair is all about finding what works best for you, a process that will likely involve some trial and error. One person’s high-shine hack may be another person’s super-greasy hair day, so be sure to start with small amounts and allow enough time for potential restyling.
For most treatments, experts recommend rinsing coconut oil out post-use – though some might opt to use a small amount as a styling oil. We suggest starting with an overnight mask or scalp treatment to see how your hair responds. Here are five easy ways to start incorporating coconut oil into your haircare routine.
1. Coconut oil hair mask
Rather than relying on coconut oil as a finisher, Fitzsimons suggests using the ingredient – or products containing it – as an easy, DIY hair mask that works while you sleep.
“One of my favourite ways to use coconut oil is to use it as an overnight leave-in treatment, to nourish and condition dehydrated locks,” says Fitzsimons. “Take a coconut oil mask and distribute a small, even amount throughout your hair and scalp and leave it on overnight. Rinse in the morning.” Fitzsimons recommends repeating the process once a week for strong, hydrated hair. Remember, coconut oil can stain fabric, so opt for a shower cap when masking overnight.
2. Pre-wash protection
Coconut oil is also effective as a pre-wash hair treatment. “Hard water and washing can sometimes strip the hair of natural oils and cause dryness and breakage,” says Fitzsimons. “To avoid this, you can add a small amount of coconut oil to your hair pre-shower, to avoid damage and dryness.” The oil does this by infusing and coating strands, guarding against over-absorption.
Coconut conditioner
Though coconut oil does work in lieu of leave-in conditioner and is an effective detangling agent, rinsing it out eventually is a must to avoid greasiness and build-up. Apply warmed oil (it should be liquid) to your hair post-shampoo, let it sit for two hours and then wash again.
Scalp treatment
Massaging coconut oil into the scalp increases circulation, combats fungus and calms inflammation, as well as bolstering your moisture barrier. While masking or conditioning, use fingers or a scalp massager to coax the oil into the roots for a natural dry scalp and hair treatment.
For styling
Coconut oil works well as a natural heat protectant and a touch of coconut oil can work to calm frizzy hair and flyaways, increasing shine and hiding split ends. Apply a pea-sized amount to wet hair or dry lengths as a shield or finisher (or both!), adding more as your hair allows.
This article was originally published on British Vogue.
