“Everyone Was Just Happy”: Behind-the-Scenes Moments From the Ottolinger Spring 2027 Show

Berlin-based designers Cosima Gadient and Christa Bösch explore the tension between skin, clothing, and self-expression, embracing deconstruction, sensuality, and a carefree approach to dressing.

Ottolinger’s Spring 2027 show was a study of skin, and you could tell without glancing at the collection notes. Titled “Moisturizer,” Berlin-based, Swiss-born creative directors Cosima Gadient and Christa Bösch asked themselves, “What do our clothes do for the person who wears them?”

It is their first collection they had approached with a single question in mind. The answers came in plenty: necklines plunging low, sheer hoodies peeking beneath jackets, and skinny jeans slashed—in one case, from the hip all the way down to the shin. Deconstruction was present, but this time on a sparser canvas. Elsewhere, dresses are draped in fine silk viscose jersey.

It is Marts Romero, Vogue Philippines contributing photographer, who finds the word to describe the show’s overarching mood: frenetic.

Romero was backstage hours before the first model walked the runwayRunwayThe platform or catwalk on which models present a designer's collection to an audience of editors, buyers, and guests. Runway shows establish the creative statement of a season, and Vogue'sGo to Runway Glossary, covering the show’s inner machinations. Vogue caught up with the photographer about what the experience was like and immerses in the backstage frenzy through his intimate lens.

Vogue Philippines: What was the energy like backstage at Ottolinger?

Marts Romero: The energy backstage at Ottolinger was frenetic. It started out calm and chill during the run-through, then went into overdrive before and during the show. After the final bow came a cathartic, joyous release, and everyone was just happy.

What was your approach to capturing the collection in a way that also translates the energy in the room?

My approach has always been to document my subjects without interfering, which I think best captures the purity of the moment. Afterward, I’ll pull the models aside to capture their looks. I love authentic interactions, which is why I like to observe my subjects first. Then, when I see an opening or a moment, I don’t think. I capture it right away, because when I “think,” I feel like the moment fades.

For the fashion looks, which details were you most attracted to, and why?

I really loved the second-skin tops and dresses. To me, they’re a celebration of one’s body and of how clothing can make you feel confident in your own skin.

What was striking about the beauty looks?

Everyone was MOISTURIZED, a fitting nod to the collection’s name. Everything from the hair to the skin felt soft and sleek, and some faces were dewy. All thanks to Isamaya Ffrench and Pablo Kuemin.